Wednesday, November 18, 2009

A love-hate relationship



I got my first slow cooker when I was in college. I think my mom bought it for me at a garage sale for about $1. It was clearly from the 1970s, but it worked and I was happy to have it.

I learned quickly, though, that this new kitchen tool was not always my friend. It was great for making some dishes, such as beef stew, but others didn't turn out as well as they did for my mom. I also learned -- the hard way -- that they are not meant to be used on the stove.

When Aaron and I got married, we received a beautiful new one as a gift. I was determined to learn how to use it properly. And again, some of the old standby recipes served us well. But I wanted to break out of the rut.

After Emma was born, Aaron and I were determined to make even greater use of our slow cooker. He even bought an old 70s-era cookbook. But the recipes were largely a disappointment. Most dishes were soupy. And they were largely flavorless, too. We eventually sold that book back.

I started to hate this blasted machine. What was the point if I could only make one or two dishes? It was just taking up room in our space-limited house. But then I started to investigate. I turned to the America's Test Kitchens, which nearly always steers me in the right direction.

I also found a low-fat slow cooker cookbook. It's certainly not my favorite, but it does offer some interesting ideas that spark my creativity.

With Emma in school and two of us working, we're turning more and more to our slow cooker. It's good, but not great. But it does help us out when we find that time is at a premium. And that makes the slow cooker worth a spot in my small kitchen.

This recipe is from "The Best Slow and Easy Recipes" from the America's Test Kitchen series.

Slow-cooker Beef and Barley Soup

1 (28 oz.) can diced tomatoes
2 tbsp. vegetable oil
3 medium onions, minced
1/4 cup tomato paste
1 tbsp. fresh thyme, or 1 tsp. dried thyme
Salt
1/2 cup dry red wine
2 cups low-sodium beef broth
2 cups low-sodium chicken broth
2 carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1/3 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup pearl barley
2 lb. blade steak, trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
Ground black pepper
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley

Process the tomatoes with their juice in a food processor until smooth, about 15 seconds, and set aside. Heat the oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the onions, tomato paste, thyme and 1/4 tsp. salt and cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are softened and lightly browned, about 10-12 minutes. Stir in the wine, scraping up any browned bits.

Transfer the mixture to the slow cooker and stir in the processed tomatoes, broths, carrots, soy sauce and barley until evenly combined. Season the meat with salt and pepper and nestle it into the slow cooker. Cover and cook, either on low or high heat, until the meat is tender, 9 to 11 hours on low or 5 to 7 hours on high.

Let the cooking liquid settle for 5 minutes, then gently tilt the slow cooker and remove as much fat as possible from the surface using a large spoon. Stir in the parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste before serving.
Cook's notes: I usually use a bit more broth and a tablespoon or two of red wine vinegar in place of the red wine. I also double the amount of barley, as the recommended amount mostly disappears.

Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Best. Sandwich. Ever.


Like most people, we have sandwiches for lunch several days a week at our house. They're quick, easy, inexpensive, delicious -- and the options are endless.

Obviously.

We sometimes fall into a sandwich rut. We have lots of ham and turkey sandwiches, often with mustard, pickles, tomatoes, lettuce (if we have it) and some Miracle Whip. (Sorry, scoffers, it's just too delicious for me to give up!) Emma often requests salami, and rarely I'll venture off the traditional course and get some roast beef. But that's usually it. Again, they're good. But sometimes boring.

So the other day, Aaron and I got into a conversation about what is truly the best sandwich. He favors the day-after-Thanksgiving turkey sandwich. He says there's nothing better. In fact, once or twice a year -- other than for the holidays -- we'll make a turkey mostly so we can make those sandwiches.

I agreed. They're great, especially with the leftover cranberry sauce. But for me, there's only one greatest sandwich. It has nothing to do with turkey. And they're only spectacular for a few short weeks a year. That's right -- the BLT.

Sure, you can make them year-round. But I honestly cannot remember the last time I went to the supermarket and was inspired by the tomatoes. Not even the organic once can get me in the mood for a BLT. The tomatoes must be fresh from the vine. And if they're heirloom, that's even better. I favor romaine or green-leaf lettuce for my BLTs. Iceberg is just OK, and many other kinds (such as arugula) are simply too flavorful for me. Of course, fresh from the farmers market lettuce is my favorite.

And the bacon. Mmmmm, bacon! I've discovered, however, that the tomatoes need to be the star of my sandwich. So I choose excellent bacon, but I only use a slice or two on my sandwich. Otherwise, the saltiness of the meat outshines the sweetness of the tomatoes -- that's a total no-go in my book.

I am picky about the bacon I buy. I've tried turkey bacon several times, but I just don't care for it. I do, however, have two favorites. The first is the Oscar Mayer smokehouse thick-sliced center cut bacon. It's delicious, and two slices are very filling. For when I really want to splurge, I get some Niman Ranch bacon. It's even better, but it's terribly bad for me. The Oscar Mayer, surprisingly, is less fatty and, therefore, better for me.

There's two last must-haves for my BLT: toasted bread and Miracle Whip. I find that untoasted bread gets too soggy from juicy tomatoes. And the Miracle Whip -- maybe it's just a childhood thing that I haven't outgrown. However, I prefer it to regular mayonnaise. And I don't need much -- just a tablespoon or two. Again, can't let anything get in the way of those summer beauties.

Mmmmm. BLTs. There's nothing like a summer splurge. And this is it!




Monday, August 10, 2009

Food for thought

The New York Times Magazine published Aug. 2 had a fascinating article by Michael Pollan. It was about the rise of cooking programs on television, and how it's not necessarily a good thing. While reading it, I thought, "Wow. He and I share a lot of opinions." Of course, his argument is much more eloquent than mine.


Yeah, it's sorta long. But it is a really good argument. In fact, it makes me sad that I've never seen any of Julia Child's first programs.


Read it here at http://www.nytimes.com/2009/08/02/magazine/02cooking-t.html?ex=1264910400&en=253f036ffe8627de&ei=5087&WT.mc_id=NYT-E-I-NYT-E-AT-0805-L3. Then let me know what you think.


Bon appetit!

Sunday, August 9, 2009

August 8: A great day for a birthday


Saturday was a big day for us. Our little Emma, who it seems we just brought home from the hospital, turned 5. Like most (if not all) children her age, she has been planning her birthday party for months. So like many parents, we indulged her in many of her whims.
But -- don't tell her this -- I rather enjoy the whole process. The treks to the party store, the grocery store, Target, wherever -- it really is fun because she and I do it together. We certainly have had our battles this year, but we still ended up with awesome party.

We opted for a party at the YMCA in Pleasant Hill. We couldn't have been happier with our choice. The party coordinator and her staff helped us with everything. They had a bounce house for the kids, and an awning with table and chairs outside so the guests could do an art project when they weren't bouncing. And they let us have water balloons -- probably everyone's favorite part on that hot afternoon.

I, of course, started worrying about what to serve. The party was from 3 to 5 p.m., an ideal time, but that got me to overthinking the situation. Do I get pizza for everyone? Is just cake and ice cream enough? How about sandwiches? Being on a budget ruled out several things -- for instance, no Baskin-Robbins cake this year. Plus, I had one additional twist I hadn't planned for: a party guest with an egg allergy. Hmm.

So, after hours of thought, I opted for snacks. Chips with guacamole and salsa. Pita chips with tzatziki and hummus. Vegetables with ranch dip. And a big tray full of fruit. Unfortunately, a sick child prevented me from making most of these dips. So off to Trader Joe's, where they offer delicious, low-cost and very convenient versions. I did, however, make my own tzatziki. It's too fast and too delicious to not take the five minutes.

I think the snack food was a good call. Everyone seemed to enjoy all the treats. And they certainly weren't too much on a hot afternoon.

For her cake, Emma wanted an ice cream cake. She's had them for the past few birthdays, and I love to serve them -- mostly because of the temperature in August. Who wants to get the oven going when it's 100 degrees? We found a delicious ice cream cake at Safeway, and at half the price of Baskin-Robbins. Another good choice.

As for the party guest with the allergy, I did a little online searching and found a great recipe. It's a Depression-era cake that eschews dairy products and eggs due to their high costs. Emma and I whipped the recipe up in about two minutes and had cupcakes half an hour later. We iced them using the recipe on the back of the C&H box (for the recipe, see the blog entry on cupcakes), which we doctored up a little. We added pink food coloring and a little raspberry extract. They were delicious! Unfortunately, our guest with the allergy was unable to make it to the party. However, a few others at the party opted for the cupcakes. And Emma and I have been enjoying the leftovers.

The party was an absolute blast -- lots of great friends, wonderful family, fun and games, gifts and, of course, yummy things to eat.
Yeah. It's good to be the birthday girl.

I've included two recipes that I served at the party. The first is for the tzatziki, a Greek cucumber dip that is one of my very favorites. The other is for the egg-free cupcakes.

This recipe is from the April 2004 issue of Cooking Light magazine.

Tzatziki

1 (32 oz.) container plain fat-free yogurt
1 1/2 cups shredded cucumber
3/4 tsp. salt, divided
2 tbsp. chopped fresh mint
1/4 tsp. fresh-ground black pepper
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Place a colander in a large bowl. Line colander with 4 layers of cheesecloth or paper towels, allowing excess to hang over edge of colander. Spoon yogurt into colander. Cover loosely with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 12 hours. Spoon drained yogurt into a clean bowl, and discard liquid from yogurt. Cover and refrigerate.

Place cucumber into colander. sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. salt. Toss well to combine. Drain 15 minutes. Place cucumbers on paper towels; squeeze until barely moist. Combined drained yogurt, cucumber, remaining salt, mint, pepper and garlic. Drizzle with oil.

This recipe is one I found years ago. According to my mom, my grandmother used to make this cake all the time. I just wish it was her specific recipe!
Wacky Cake

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup sugar
3 tbsp. unsweetened cocoa powder
1 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. salt
1/3 cup vegetable oil
1 tbsp. white vinegar
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 cup cold water

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Measure flour, sugar, cocoa, baking soda and salt into sifter. Sift into an ungreased 9-inch square pan. Make 3 wells in pan with your finger. Put vanilla in one, oil in another and vinegar in the third. Pour cold water over top. Mix with fork until dry ingredients disappear. Batter should be thin. Bake 30 minutes. Cool, then frost and serve from pan.

Wednesday, July 22, 2009

How many salads is enough? 101


My husband and I have been subscribers of the New York Times for nearly three years. I absolutely love everything about it. One of the things I love most is, not surprisingly, the Dining section, which runs Wednesdays. The writers are all top-notch, and I usually read it cover-to-cover. Yes, even the restaurant reviews. And no, I still haven't been to New York City (soon, I swear).

Of all the writers, my favorite is Mark Bittman. He has a column each week called the Minimalist, and it's pretty much how it sounds. Delicious meals, simply made. In fact -- another shocking discovery -- I have his amazing cookbook "How to Cook Everything" in my kitchen constantly. It's the original one -- it's a great book, and I highly recommend it (or the updated 10th anniversary edition) to anyone.

Bittman has come up with several lists of 101 different types of dishes. One was 101 meals to make in 10 minutes or less. Another was picnic dishes. All of them have been fascinating. We've tried some of his recipes from a variety of the lists, and they've mostly been delicious -- and always simple!

His newest list, 101 Simple Salads for the Season, ran in today's Times. I couldn't wait to check it out. As I read the list, I kept thinking that it was like he'd read my mind -- or at least my previous blog on ways to get more vegetables on my plate. And as I perused his ideas, a list of must-try salads quickly formed in my head. Here's three that I plan on making:

7. Grate carrots, toast some sunflower seeds, and toss with blueberries, olive oil, lemon juice and plenty of black pepper. Sweet, sour, crunchy, soft.

13. A red salad: Combine tomato wedges with halved strawberries, basil leaves, shaved Parmesan and balsamic vinegar.

99. Toss cooked quinoa with fresh sliced apricots, cherries, pecans and enough lemon and black pepper to make the whole thing savory.

So, go check it out. Now! The list is at http://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/22/dining/22mlist.html?_r=1.

Tuesday, July 21, 2009

July challenge


I've been a Weight Watchers member for about 16 months now. It's really a great plan, and I highly encourage anyone wanting to lose some extra pounds to seriously look into it. I also love the program because of my incredible leader. I've been to several meetings run by several incredible women, but Lanette truly is the best. Almost weekly, she has a new idea to keep us motivated.

For July, it's been eating more fruits and vegetables. Sounds simple, right? And it should be, especially this time of year. Surprisingly enough, it's not. I'm a picky eater (obviously) and I don't eat all vegetables. Take zucchini, for instance. It's a harmless enough veggie -- and it's probably Aaron's favorite. I, however, think it tastes like green styrofoam. There's others, such as green beans, that I'll eat if I'm served but won't choose on my own. And then there's bell peppers. I really think they smell delicious. But they make me sick as a dog if I eat them, even accidentally. That also tends to make me shy away from jalapenos and other spicy peppers.

Fruit, though, is a different story. With the exception of cantaloupe and honeydew melons, I will eat any fruit that comes my way. I'm even learning to like mango. In fact, I have a hard time keeping fruit in my house. My 4-year-old is fantastic about asking for a piece of fruit for a snack, and I find grabbing a nectarine or an orange is an easy treat to take to work.

I decided right away that I was going to take Lanette's challenge -- filling half my plate with vegetables -- seriously. My family was, too, even though they didn't know it. And for the first three or four days, we did great. We had lots of salads, and we threw some veggies (cauliflower, carrots and potatoes) on the grill another night.

But then it happened -- the inevitable downfall that usually hits me. I head back to the traditional convenient, one-dish meals that make up most of our dinner rotation. They're mostly prety healthy, but the vegetables they usually called include just a sauteed onion or a can of tomatoes or a cup or so of mushrooms. Good, but not great.

So after my meeting today, I steeled my resolve to continue filling my plate with veggies. I turned back to salads. But not just the kind with lettuce, carrots and a handful of cucumbers or radishes or whatever vegetable I have in the fridge. I tire of them much too easily. This time I found some that make other vegetables the star. I think it will make the challenge easier to accomplish.

This recipe is from the latest issue of Cook's Country magazine.

Cherry Tomato Caprese Salad

2 pints cherry (or grape) tomatoes, quartered
1/2 tsp. sugar
Salt
Black pepper
1 tbsp. balsamic vinegar
1 garlic clove, minced
2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
8 oz. fresh mozzarella cheese, cut into 1/2-inch cubes and patted dry
1 cup chopped fresh basil

Toss tomatoes, sugar and 1/4 tsp. salt in a large bowl. Let stand 30 minutes. Transfer tomatoes and any accumulated liquid to salad spinner and spin to remove seeds and liquid. Return tomatoes to bowl. Pour tomato liquid through fine-mesh strainer set over saucepan, pressing on solids to extract juice. (You should have abut 1/2 cup liquid.)

Add vinegar and garlic to pan with tomato liquid; simmer over medium heat until reduced to 3 tbsp., about 5 minutes. Cool to room temperature, then whisk in oil.

Add cheese, basil and cooled dressing to bowl with tomatoes; toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper. Serve.
Cook's note: The magazine offered several suggestions on ways to vary this salad. Drop me an e-mail if you're interested in some of the others.

My mother-in-law served us this next recipe. It's incredible! It's from the latest issue of Sunset magazine.

Corn and Avocado Salad

6 ears corn
2 cups halved cherry tomatoes
1/2 cup thinly sliced red onion
1 large avocado, cut into 1/2-in. cubes
1/3 cup chopped fresh basil
2 tbsp. Champagne vinegar
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 tsp. kosher salt
1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

In a large pot of boiling water, cook corn until warmed through, 3 to 5 minutes. Rinse with cold water until cool.

Meanwhile, combine tomatoes, onion, avocado, and basil in a large bowl. In a small bowl, combine remaining ingredients to make the vinaigrette, whisking until blended.

Cut corn kernels off cobs and add to salad, then pour in vinaigrette and toss gently to combine.

Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Bastille Day


In the past few years, I have discovered that I like to celebrate other nations' holidays. Today, July 14, is Bastille Day. It's all about the French Revolution, and while I'm not French, I enjoy pretending to be Gallic for a day.

In addition, Bastille Day stirs up some of my favorite travel memories. To celebrate our third anniversary, Aaron and I decided to make our first trip to Europe. We spent a week in London and another five days in Paris. It was one of the best trips of my life, and it has furthered my resolve to return to the beautiful nation. I also had a wonderful time exploring many of the Paris' wonderful restaurants and culinary treasures. For instance, we had the most delectable Nutella crepes near the Eiffel Tower. And one on our last night of the trip, we had an amazing dinner at a restaurant called Leo le Lion. Plus there was the fresh pastries, the chocolates, the ice cream from Berthillon. I'm ready to go back now!

Unfortunately, real life is interfering with my daydreaming. Instead, I'll start a load of laundry before heading to work tonight. A French dinner, though, is within my reach. I originally had dreams of all these wonderful meals -- coq au vin, cassoulet, duck a l'orange -- but had almost none of the ingredients. So, to save my family a few (or more) dollars and make cooking easy on my husband, I went searching for a fast, easy recipe.

Bull's-eye.

One of my favorite Web sites, http://www.recipesource.com/, had more than 100 French recipes to choose from. The one I selected, Chicken Francaise, seemed simple. I had most of the ingredients in my freezer or pantry; Aaron only had to pick up two of them at the supermarket. Excellent! How French it is, well, I don't know. But it is easy. And delicious.

Tres bien!

This recipe is from www.recipesource.com.

Chicken Francaise

6 medium chicken breasts
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 can (10 1/2 oz.) cream of mushroom soup
3 oz. mushrooms, sliced
Paprika
1 cup sour cream

Place chicken breasts, skin side up, in baking pan; sprinkle with salt. Blend wine into soup; add mushrooms and pour over chicken.

Bake at 350 degrees for 60 to 75 minutes. Remove chicken to platter; sprinkle with paprika. Pour sauce into saucepan; mix in sour cream and heat gently until hot. Do not boil, or sauce will separate. Serve over chicken and sauce over hot cooked rice.

Cook's notes: We used low-fat soup mix and sour cream; both worked beautifully. We also used boneless, skinless chicken breasts and reduced the cooking time by 15 to 20 minutes. You could skip sprinkling the chicken with salt; the wine and soup mixture are plenty salty without it.

Friday, July 10, 2009

Dining destinations: Minneapolis-St. Paul


Sometime late last year or earlier this year, my awesome sister told me during one of our lengthy phone calls that my niece had asked when her cousin Emma was going to come to her house to play. After the "awww, how sweet!" I actually started to think about going to visit my sister, her boyfriend and their adorable 4-year-old in the Twin Cities. Aaron and I hadn't been to the area since 2002, and with the Twins playing their final season in the Metrodome, and with my cute little niece wanting us to come for a visit, well, it seemed like our summer vacation was destined to be in Minnesota.

After checking the Twins schedule (our first step -- really!) and looking at the vacation calendar at work, we decided that the Fourth of July holiday would be ideal. And it worked out for my sister and her family, too. So we booked our tickets and looked forward to a week in the Twin Cities.

It was a great vacation. Emma and her cousin, for the most part, got along well. And my mom, one of my cousins, my half-sister and her boyfriend all were able to join us for part of the trip, which made it even more fun! As usual, I didn't want to make this trip just about fun for the kids. I wanted to find cool places for all of us to eat. Mission accomplished.

One evening early in our trip, my sister suggested we take a trip to Izzy's Ice Cream in St. Paul. The line was out the door, but five of us, including two not-so-patient 4-year-olds, waited 20 or so minutes. I quickly figured out why the line was so long. Not only was the ice cream delicious, but it was nearly impossible to choose which yummy flavor to have. I went for a single scoop of hot brown sugar, with a tiny "Izzy scoop" of Italian strawberry. They were excellent. The hot brown sugar was a caramel ice cream spiked with lots(!!!) of cinnamon and nutmeg and a little cayenne, I think, and some spiced pecans. It was the spiciest ice cream I've ever had. For me, though, the Izzy scoop was even better. It was made of strawberries stewed in balsamic vinegar, then mixed into an ice cream base. Amazing! A few days later, Aaron and I stopped by to get a birthday cake for my half-sister. We each decided to get another little scoop for ourselves. That day I went for the cake batter. Again, it was fantastic. This shop is at the top of our list for places to check out again the next time we return to the area.

On the evening of the Fourth, my sister and her boyfriend suggested we go get pizza before heading down to the banks of the Mississippi to see some fireworks. We went back to St. Paul again for dinner at Pizza Luce. Before we even ordered, Aaron and I liked the place. It had a fun, funky college vibe, and lots of cool selections on the menu. Ultimately, we each opted for the salad with grilled pears. It was delicious -- spinach, dried cranberries, pecans, goat cheese and those delicious grilled pears tossed in a fantastic raspberry vinaigrette. We also ordered the Ruby Rae pizza, which the restaurant calls an "upside-down pie." The sauce was on the top, with spinach, tomatoes, Italian sausage and cheese below. It was even better than the salad! On our way out, Aaron and I agreed that we would love a hip dining spot like this in our neighborhood.

The next evening, we took our ice cream cake from Izzy's and had a big group dinner to celebrate my half-sister's birthday. Our restaurant of choice: Joe's Garage in Minneapolis. We were looking forward to this. My sister and her boyfriend had spoken so highly of it, and how that if we took our two 4-year-olds on the rooftop patio, no one would complain about the noise. It was a good, if just short of great, dinner for me. I had an SWG salad -- mixed greens tossed with strawberries, walnuts and gorgonzola cheese in a balsamic vinaigrette. It was, hands down, the best thing I had to eat on our trip. However, I went for an appetizer for my entree: the lamb meatballs in a tomato sauce with feta cheese. This is where I was disappointed. The sauce was great, but despite a great flavor the meatballs were tough. My half-sister, a chef, told me the problem was that they probably sat under a heat lamp while everyone else's meals were prepared. Oh well. Next time I'll know to send them back.

We certainly had lots of other great things to eat along the way (at the Hard Rock Cafe, Tony Roma's and especially the Moroccan chicken salad at California Pizza Kitchen), plus some good ballpark eats at the Metrodome.

The three games we took in (one just Aaron and me!) at the Metrodome were incredibly important to me. I've been a Twins fan since I was 8 years old, and I went to my first Major League Baseball game there when I was 10. So saying farewell to a facility that I've actually liked was truly important to me, and I'm glad I had a chance to go one last time.

Before leaving, I had to stock up on two of my favorite delicacies from Minnesota. I stopped at a grocery store to bring home two jars of Gedney pickles. I've never found any that can match "the Minnesota pickle." I've even converted my California-born husband and daughter to my way of thinking on that, too! I also brought home two Nut Goodie candy bars -- one for me, and one for a colleague who grew up in Minnesota. It's a fun tradition that started a few years ago in our newsroom amongst the few of us in the Upper Midwest. Now that it's just the two of us (that I know of), it's fun to keep it alive.

We arrived back in California last night. It's always good to be home. But it's even harder saying goodbye after a great trip. So thanks again Jaci, Kyle, Charlee, Grandma Joyce, Taylor, Dana and Kyle. We had a really excellent trip. Let's do it again soon -- next time for hockey!

I wanted to include a recipe featuring a favorite Minnesota ingredient: wild rice. This recipe isn't great for summer, but it's certainly delicious on those cold winter nights, wherever you live. It's from a great book I got from my mom a few years ago, "A Cook's Tour of Minnesota," by Ann L. Burckhardt.

Byerly's Wild Rice Soup

6 tbsp. butter
1 tbsp. minced onion
1/2 cup flour
3 cups chicken broth
2 cups cooked wild rice
1/3 cup minced ham
1/2 cup finely grated carrots
3 tbsp. chopped slivered almonds
1/2 tsp. salt
1 cup half-and-half
2 tbsp. dry sherry (optional)

Melt butter in saucepan; stir-fry onion until tender. Blend in flour; gradually add broth. Cook, stirring constantly, until mixture comes to a boil; boil 1 minute. Stir in rice, ham, carrots, almonds and salt; simmer about 5 minutes. Blend in half-and-half. Add sherry, if using. Heat to serving temperature. Garnish with chives or parsley, if desired.

Cook's notes: Cooked chicken is a delicious alternative to the ham. If you want to add more vegetables, some celery and/or sauteed mushrooms would be delicious.

Sunday, June 21, 2009

Kitchen favorites: bulgur


I absolutely adore Middle Eastern food. I really cannot get enough of it. I'm trying to incorporate many of the healthier aspects into my family's diet, and I've found that it isn't as hard as I had imagined. Well, except for the lamb. I love, love, love it, but that red meat is so blasted bad for me!

One easy way to get some much-needed fiber in our diets is with bulgur wheat. It's available at some grocery stores and certainly at Middle Eastern markets. (If there's one near you and you've never been, what are you waiting for? Go. Now!) In addition to being high in fiber, it's incredibly low in fat. It is, however, relatively high in calories. But a little can be very filling. The best part, however, is that it is super-easy to cook. Just add some boiling water or chicken broth, then let it stand for 30 minutes to an hour. Done!

Bulgur is used in many applications. My personal favorites are in tabbouleh and kibbeh. Tabbouleh is a Middle Eastern salad full of tomatoes, cucumbers, onions and topped with a delicious lemon-olive oil dressing. It certainly can be varied by taste. Some people add lots of vegetables, such as carrots, bell peppers, olives or even artichokes. Lean meats also make a delicious addition. Chicken, for instance, can turn a delicious side dish into a filling lunch.

Kibbeh, for those who know little to nothing about it, is the Lebanese national dish. It's a meat dish, made with ground or finely chopped lamb or beef, bulgur and onion. It can be baked, fried, stewed or raw. It can even be made vegetarian. It is probably my favorite Middle Eastern dish, and I cannot encourage you enough to go find some if you've never had it!

Bulgur is ground three ways: coarse, medium and fine. I prefer medium grind for almost everything I make. Coarse is delicious in salads, but I find it too tough for kibbeh. Bulgur is a great ingredient for storing in a pantry or freezer. It will keep for a long time if it's placed in an airtight container in a cool, dark place.

This recipe I'm suggesting is certainly inspired by tabbouleh. It's a fantastic summer salad. I made it for Father's Day and got compliments from nearly everyone (all except my picky 4-year-old). Try it for yourself. I bet you'll love it!

This recipe is from the July 2009 issue of Cooking Light magazine.

Minty Bulgur Wheat and Peach Salad

2 cups boiling water
1 cup uncooked bulgur wheat
3 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
2 tbsp. fresh lime juice
2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 tbsp. honey
1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
2 cups diced, peeled fresh peach (about 2 medium)
2 cups diced, peeled jicama
1 cup finely minced fresh mint

Combine boiling water and bulgur in a large bowl; let stand for 1 hour or until water is absorbed. Combine juices, oil, honey, salt and pepper, stirring well with a whisk. Add peach, jicama and mint to bulgur; toss to combine. Drizzle dressing mixture over bulgur mixture; toss to coat. Chill 1 hour.

Cook's notes: This recipe can be made a day ahead; if you do, I suggest adding a squeeze or two of juice, or a drizzle of oil, if not another batch of the dressing. The bulgur sops up all the liquid as it sits, so it can be dry. If you don't like (or can't find) jicama, cucumbers or celery might be a good substitute. Celery has that great crunch, but the flavor is a bit more pronounced. Cucumber has the more mellow flavor, but the crunch isn't the same. I would also suggest experimenting with summer fruits. Apricots would be particularly delicious!

Friday, June 19, 2009

Must-not-see TV


Back in the olden days -- the mid-1990s -- while looking for ways to get out of doing my required reading for college (think development of political thought) I stumbled on something that I never expected I would enjoy -- a cooking show. It was on the Discovery Channel, and it featured chefs at famous restaurants preparing a signature dish. The chefs didn't always speak English (way cool!), and the show featured three of them in a half-hour show. I was smitten -- and doing poorly in a few of my classes.

Several years later, I was elated to learn that my cable system was including Food Network in its lineup. I quickly fell in love The network was full of cooking shows, from which I learned many new recipes and techniques. And I liked most of the chefs. My favorite was, yes, Martha Stewart. But I also liked Emeril Lagasse. And Sara Moulton. And Jacques Torres, Wolfgang Puck and Ming Tsai. And I love, love, loved "Iron Chef."

But it changed (I personally blame it on Emeril's sitcom). Whatever it was, many of my favorite chefs were gone. Their replacements mostly made me cringe. I'm not sure why, but I just didn't connect with many of the male hosts. Some (this means you, Tyler Florence) had to ride to the rescue of damsel in distress. And others were sort of know-it-alls that just annoyed me constantly.

As for the women, there was certainly a new type of chef: sex symbol. Some of the presenters (Giada de Laurentiis and Sandra Lee) seemed like perfectly fine chefs. Others (indeed, Rachael Ray) made me want to pull my hair out. I found their low-cut blouses completely unreasonable. I wanted to scream at them, "You're sauteeing! Button up!" In addition, they were too skinny -- it seemed to me the only thing they ate all day was the "mmm, this is delicious!" taste they took for the camera.

Then there was the most sacreligious program -- "Iron Chef America." That Bobby Flay was on it. Ick. And I'm not overly crazy about Mario Batali. Not even the addition of Masaharu Morimoto couldn't save it in my eyes. It was exactly the same. Just Americanized. Ugh. I was ready to write the whole network off.

Almost.

I discovered two chefs whose programs I really liked. To this day, Jamie Oliver and Ina Garten keep me coming back. "Jamie at Home" (and all his other programs) and "Barefoot Contessa" are just what I originally loved about the network. I love how both chefs make cooking look so easy. And I think it's wonderful how Jamie shows -- not just talks about -- why finding top-quality products from local farmers, butchers, cheesemakers, etc., makes a world of difference in home cooking. I've used Ina's recipes and entertaining tips several times. I so adore their shows that I even put them on my DVR.

If anyone were to ask me where to turn for really great cooking programs, I would quickly tell them to head to PBS. It's the home of the America's Test Kitchens (my absolute, hands-down favorite). But Jacques Torres' program is excellent. And I think Lidia Bastianich and Joanne Weir have great shows, too. And once in a while, you might even catch Julia Child. For me, this is must-see TV.

This recipe is from Ina Garten's book "Barefoot Contessa at Home."

Stuffed Cabbage

For sauce:
3 tbsp. olive oil
1 1/2 cups chopped onions (about 2)
2 (28 oz) cans crushed tomatoes and their juices
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1/2 cup light brown sugar, lightly packed
1/2 cup raisins
1 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
3/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

1 large head Savoy or green cabbage, including outer leaves

For filling:
2 1/2 lb. ground chuck
3 extra-large eggs, lightly beaten
1/2 cup finely chopped onion
1/2 cup dried bread crumbs
1/2 cup uncooked white rice
1 tsp. minced fresh thyme
1 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

For the sauce, heat the olive oil in a large saucer, add the onions and cook over medium-low heat for 8 minutes or until the onions are translucent. Add the tomatoes, vinegar, brown sugar, raisins, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer uncovered for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Set aside.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Remove the entire core of the cabbage with a paring knife. Immerse the head of cabbage in the boiling water for a few minutes, peeling off each leaf with tongs as soon as it's flexible. Set the leaves aside. Depending on the size of each leaf, you will need at least 14 leaves.

For the filling, in a large bowl combine the ground chuck, eggs, onion, bread crumbs, rice, thyme, salt and pepper. Add 1 cup of the sauce to the meat mixture and mix lightly with a fork.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

To assemble, place 1 cup of the sauce in the bottom of a large Dutch oven. Remove the hard triangular rib from the base of each cabbage leaf with a small paring knife. Place 1/3 to 1/2 cup of filling in an oval shape near the rib edge of each leaf and roll up toward the outer edge, tucking the sides in as you roll. Place half the cabbage rolls, seam side down, over the sauce. Add more sauce and cabbage rolls alternately until you've placed all the cabbage rolls in the pot. Pour the remaining sauce over the cabbage rolls. Cover the dish tightly with the lid and bake for 1 hour, or until the meat is cooked and the rice is tender. Serve hot.

Cook's notes: I usually cut the olive oil down to 1 tablespoon to save fat and calories. I've had no problems doing this. I also substitute ground turkey for the ground chuck, and I prefer that. I've found that I need far more than 14 leaves; I usually need more than 20. The recipe says this serves six, but the servings are huge! I cut it in half and have leftovers for days!

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Food porn


About six or seven years ago, I began subscribing to Bon Appetit magazine. I first noticed it standing in a line at the grocery store. The gorgeous photo on the cover -- it was an apple pie, I think -- got me to toss it in my basket. Then was the amazing deal for subscribers -- just $1 an issue! Who could turn down that deal?

Soon after my subscription began, I became hooked on these gorgeous photos. And the recipes that accompanied them to die for. And they all sounded so delicious. I loved how the recipes' authors would come up with the most unusual flavor combinations. And again with those photos. The photographers could make even the seafood dishes look delicious to me.

My voice of reason -- my husband -- soon started to point out some of the magazine's flaws to me. Many of the recipes were terribly unhealthy. Often they called for ingredients that were horrible for those of us watching our weight. Cream. Red meat. Butter. Bacon. Cheese. Sugar. My head started spinning just thinking about it. And my heart was saddened by the reality of what my husband was telling me.

However, the longer I stick with my diet, the more resolute I become to not give up Bon Appetit. I now liken it to, yes, pornography. It's fun to just look -- and even fantasize about that cover recipe. Even the recipes without photos conjure up delicious dreams. It's not just the recipes, though. The glossy ads promote high-end products that I would give an arm to have in my kitchen. And other kitchen-related things, such as beautiful china and linens, are usually presented.

But instead of giving up my fantasies, I often try to make healthier versions of those tasty treats. A barbecue sauce or rub can always be tried on chicken. And desserts can be attempted with fat-free milk and egg whites.

The results don't always succeed. But it's fun to fantasize -- and to look forward to the next month's issue of food porn.

This recipe is from an issue of, obviously, Bon Appetit. It's certainly one I don't make often, but it is truly a treat.

Lamb and raisin pies with pine nuts and mint

1 1/2 lb. ground lamb
2 cups chopped onion
1 tbsp. minced garlic
2 (14 1/2 oz.) cans diced, peeled tomatoes, drained
3/4 cups raisins
1 tsp. ground allspice
3 tbsp. chopped fresh mint
1 (17 1/4 oz.) package frozen puff pastry (2 sheets), thawed
1 egg, beaten

Saute lamb in large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until cooked through, breaking up meat with fork, about 7 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer meat to plate. Pour off all but 1 tbsp. drippings from skillet. Add onion and garlic; saute until tender and golden, about 5 minutes. Return lamb to skillet. Add tomatoes, raisins and allspice, and simmer until juices evaporate, about 5 minutes. Stir in pine nuts and mint. Season with salt and pepper. Cool.

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Roll out 1 puff pastry sheet on floured work surface to 14-inch square. Cut into four 7-inch squares. Repeat with second puff pastry sheet. Beginning at one corner of each pastry square, place 1/8 of lamb mixture on half of square, forming triangle. Brush pastry edges with egg. Fold pastry over filling, forming triangle. Press edges to seal. Place pies on two ungreased baking sheets. Bake until pies are puffed and golden, about 20 minutes. Serve warm.

Bon Appetit doesn't only feature unhealthy recipes. They also publish healthier dishes, and I have been pleased with many.

This recipe is from an issue of Bon Appetit.

Chicken Saute Provencale

4 tbsp. olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
4 large garlic cloves, chopped
1 (28 oz.) can diced, peeled tomatoes
3 3 x 1/2-inch strips orange zest
2 1/2 tsp. dried oregano
2 bay leaves
1/2 tsp. paprika
4 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves

Heat 2 tbsp. oil in heavy, large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and saute until tender, about 10 minutes. Add garlic, tomatoes with their juices, zest, oregano, bay leaves and paprika and cook until sauce thickens, stirring occasionally, about 30 minutes. Discard bay leaves.

Heat remaining oil in heavy, large skillet over medium-high heat. Season chicken with salt and pepper. Add chicken to skillet and saute until cooked through, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer to plate. Rewarm sauce and spoon over chicken.

Friday, June 5, 2009

Up for the challenge


A few weeks ago, a colleague at the newspaper told me he and his girlfriend had subscribed to Cook's Illustrated magazine. I congratulated him on the excellent choice and asked him how he liked the recipes so far. He told me they hadn't made any but would keep me up to date.

About a week or so later, he told me his girlfriend wanted him to make her something from the first issue, and he wanted my opinion. I went home, got mine out and quickly made a recommendation: Maple-glazed pork tenderloin. Not only did the recipe sound delicious, but it appeared very easy. I gave him my suggestion, and he told me his girlfriend had picked the same one. He, however, favored the grilled salmon. I then asked him to let me know how his dinner turned out.

After another week or so, I inquired about the tenderloin. He told me that dinner was not going to happen. Curiosity got the best of me, so I continued my questioning.

"Who has maple syrup and molasses in their pantry?" he asked.

"I do!" I asserted.

"And who has cornstarch at home?" he further asked. "And what's with the rimmed baking sheet?"

I was starting to get annoyed with him. "I do!" I said. "And I'm sure you have a rimmed baking sheet."

Then came his big question to me: "Well, did you make it?" I 'fessed up. No, I hadn't made it. And actually, I was out of maple syrup and molasses -- but in my defense, I often have them on hand. So as I saw it, the ball was technically in my court.

So last weekend, I got out my Cook's Illustrated. And I was determined to make the pork tenderloin. So off we went to the grocery store to get the molasses, maple syrup and pork.

After a relatively easy hour or so of cooking, the pork tenderloin was on the table. I was right -- it was easy, and better yet, it was delicious. Even my picky 4-year-old ate two or three slices. She called it chicken, but it didn't matter to me as long as she enjoyed it.

This truly is an easy meal to make. A salad, or vegetable such as baked sweet potatoes or sauteed carrots, would be delicious. Add some French bread, and you've got an easy, delicious meal. So, to my colleague -- you owe it to your girlfriend and to yourself to hunt down some cornstarch, molasses and maple syrup. You won't regret it.

This recipe is from the May & June 2009 issue of Cook's Illustrated magazine.

Maple-glazed pork tenderloin

3/4 cup maple syrup
1/4 cup light or mild molasses
2 tbsp. bourbon or brandy
1/8 tsp. ground cinnamon
Pinch ground cloves
Pinch cayenne pepper
1/4 cup cornstarch
2 tbsp. sugar
1 tbsp. table salt
2 tsp. ground black pepper
2 pork tenderloins (1 1/4 to 1 1/2 lb. each)
2 tbsp. vegetable oil
1 tbsp. whole-grain mustard

Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Stir 1/2 cup maple syrup, molasses, bourbon, cinnamon, cloves and cayenne pepper together in 2-cup liquid measure; set aside. Whisk cornstarch, sugar, salt and black pepper in small bowl until combined. Transfer cornstarch measure to rimmed baking sheet. Pat tenderloins dry with paper towels, then roll in cornstarch mixture until evenly coated on all sides. Thoroughly pat off excess cornstarch mixture.

Heat oil in 12-inch heavy-bottomed nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just beginning to smoke. Reduce heat to medium and place both tenderloins in skillet, leaving at least 1-inch in between. Cook until well browned on all sides, 8 to 12 minutes. Transfer tenderloins to wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet.

Pour off excess fat from skillet and return to medium heat. Add syrup mixture to skillet, scraping up browned bits with wooden spoon, and cook until reduced to 1/2 cup, about 2 minutes. Transfer 2 tbsp. glaze to small bowl and set aside. Using remaining glaze, brush each tenderloin with about 1 tbsp. glaze. Roast until instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of tenderloins reaches about 130 degrees, 12 to 20 minutes. Brush each tenderloin with another tablespoon of glaze and continue to roast until instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part registers 135 to 140 degrees, about 2 to 4 minutes longer. Remove tenderloins from oven and brush each with remaining glaze; let rest, uncovered, 10 minutes.

While tenderloins rest, stir remaining 1/4 cup maple syrup and mustard into reserved 2 tbsp. glaze. Brush each tenderloin with 1 tbsp. mustard glaze. Transfer meat to cutting board and slice into 1/4-inch-thick pieces. Serve, passing extra mustard glaze.

Cook's notes: Make sure to line your baking sheet (the one below the baking rack) with aluminum foil. The glaze is super-sticky, and it is tough to clean! Keep the glaze warm, as it gets thick and tough to spread when it cools. A few seconds in the microwave will do the trick.

Although I haven't tried them, Cook's has offered two alternate versions.

Maple-glazed pork tenderloin with smoked paprika and ginger: Follow above recipe, substituting dry sherry for bourbon and 1/4 tsp. smoked paprika and 1 tsp. grated fresh ginger for cinnamon, cloves and cayenne pepper. Omit mustard.

Maple-glazed pork tenderloin with orange and chipotle: Follow above recipe, substituting 2 tbsp. frozen orange juice concentrate for 2 tbsp. molasses. Omit cinnamon, cloves and cayenne pepper and add 2 small, finely minced chipotle chiles plus 2 tsp. adobo sauce to initial maple syrup mixture. Omit mustard.

Monday, June 1, 2009

Tips for the newlyweds


One of my dearest friends in the world got married Saturday. Annette was the last of my college roommates; in fact, most of my favorite college memories include her. I was thrilled when she announced her engagement, and I was saddened when tight finances made it impossible for us to make it back to North Dakota for the celebration.

Her wedding, though, got me thinking back to my days as a newlywed (it's been 10 years; I can hardly believe it myself). I wasn't nearly as good a cook then as now. I was just discovering how much I enjoyed cooking, but as with all new things, there certainly was a learning curve. Fortunately, Aaron was (and still is) willing to try almost anything I made -- even when it wasn't good.

My mother had given me some recipes that I had always enjoyed, but I was eager to try new things. We had received a beautiful cookbook as a wedding gift. However, it didn't last long -- our beloved dog chewed it up not long after we adopted him. But I refused to let that deter me. I wanted to start our own menu of favorites and/or go-to recipes when that inevitable "what's for dinner?" question came up.

So I sat the other day thinking about this very thing when I had an idea: a list of recipes that every couple should have. My first thought, kinda obviously, was meatloaf. However, this wouldn't work for Annette. She's a vegetarian, and I wanted to give her something she could make for her husband -- or better yet, something he could make for her.

My first idea was for pancakes. It's an ideal recipe for many reasons. It's easy, you can make them for more than just breakfast, and they whip up quickly -- especially after a long night with an infant who refuses to go to sleep. My mom gave me a recipe she has used for years. It is delicious, but for some reason my pancakes never turn out quite as good as hers. I discovered another one a few years ago, and it has turned into my favorite. Check out the recipe below. One tip: If you can find passion fruit syrup (it's hard unless you're in Hawaii), it makes an incredible topper for these pancakes.

Another idea I had was stir-fry. It's one of my favorite meals, but for many reasons (most involve our picky 4-year-old) we don't make them often. To me, stir-fry is a dish you don't really need a recipe for. I've found lots of good bottled sauces to top stir-fried vegetables, meats, tofu, whatever you want to include. Just make some rice to go with it, and you've got a delicious vegetarian feast.

My third idea was a good pasta sauce. I can't tell you how many times I've made a big pot of sauce, then froze half of it. On those nights when I can't think of anything, a big bowl of spaghetti is only a few minutes away -- and it's better than almost any Italian restaurant. Just grab a bag of salad mix, and dinner's ready!

My next idea was soup -- it's a lot like the pasta sauce. Many are easily freezable, and some can be made in half-hour or so. And there are tons of options for vegetarian soups.

Lastly, every newlywed couple has to have a good dessert recipe. Something for dinner parties, or holidays, or birthdays and anniversaries, or just because. I would suggest an apple crisp (or any other kind of fruit, for that matter). Here's my reasoning: Pie crusts are hard and intimidating (that's a blog for another day), and it turns out that not everyone likes cake. Apple crisp, with a big scoop of vanilla ice cream -- I can't ever remember anyone telling me "no, thank you" to that.

There's my list. Congratulations again, Annette and Kelly. Here's wishing you all the happiness in the world!

This first recipe is from the 2003 book "Barefoot Contessa Family Style" by Ina Garten.

Banana Sour Cream Pancakes

1 1/2 cups flour
3 tbsp. sugar
2 tsp. baking soda
1 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 cup sour cream
3/4 cup plus 1 tbsp. milk
2 eggs
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 tsp. grated lemon zest
Butter
2 ripe bananas, plus extra for serving
Maple syrup

Sift together the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. In a separate bowl, whisk together the sour cream, milk, eggs, vanilla and lemon zest. Add the wet ingredients to the dry ones, mixing only until combined

Melt 1 tbsp. butter in a large skillet over medium-low heat until it bubbles. Ladle the pancake batter into the pan to make 3 or 4 pancakes. Distribute a rounded tablespoon of bananas on each pancake. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until bubbles appear on the top and the underside is nicely browned. Flip the pancakes and cook for another minute until browned. Wipe out the pan with a paper towel, add more butter to the pan, and continue cooking pancakes until all the batter is used. Serve with sliced bananas, butter and maple syrup.

This is, without a doubt, the best recipe for pasta sauce I've ever had. It was from Aaron's Grandpa Pete.

Grandpa Pete's Spaghetti Sauce

1 lb. ground hamburger or turkey, cooked and drained
5 small cans of tomato sauce (rinse out each can with water and add to pot)
1 (15 oz.) can stewed tomatoes
3 large carrots, shredded (optional)
2 stalks celery, chopped (optional)
1 large onion, chopped
1 tsp. allspice
1/2 tsp. thyme
1 1/2 tsp. oregano
2 tbsp. parsley
2 bay leaves
1 can mushrooms, sliced
4-5 cloves garlic, minced
Salt and pepper, to taste

Bring all the ingredients to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook for about 2 hours, stirring occasionally. Sauce will thicken. Remove bay leaves, then serve. Note: This sauce freezes beautifully!

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Adaptations, Part 2


I've been on the Weight Watchers program for 14 months. It certainly hasn't been easy, but it has further reinforced the idea that for every unhealthy meal, there is a better choice to be made. With this in mind, I headed to my kitchen to start making some of my family's meals healthier.

First off, I want to get rid of the idea that food has to be fat-free or no-carb to lose weight. It's completely ridiculous. In fact, after some experimenting, I've found that in most cases I would rather have a smaller portion of something that tastes good than something full of fat-free products that is awful.

So, on to the adaptations. In my railings against fat-free products, I will start with fat-free condiments. To use an old, cliched saying: Just say no. For salad dressings and mayonnaise, go for the low-fat alternative each time. For some people, however, those options are unacceptable as well. So I have found alternatives to those, too.

I have discovered that unless mayonnaise is slathered on a sandwich, I don't even really notice it. Instead, I use a bit more mustard (yellow is my favorite -- don't laugh!) and omit the mayo altogether. I also add more pickles (another favorite!) and some extra tomatoes. I rarely have a sandwich disappoint me that way.

For salads, I have discovered that I don't need a lot of dressing to make it taste good. At our house, we always have a bottle of Newman's Own Light Balsamic Vinaigrette in the fridge. And a bottle of low-fat Hidden Valley Ranch. They taste good, and we don't miss what has been taken out. If those don't appeal to you, one trick I've tried in the past is to find a really nice bottle of balsamic vinegar -- one flavored with fruit, if possible (blackberry is my favorite) -- and just drizzle a bit of it over your salad. It's delicious and costs very few calories.

Dairy is another problem for dieters. I prefer skim milk and enjoy fat-free yogurt, but I pretty much draw the line after that on fat-free dairy products. Some, such as fat-free sour cream and half-and-half, don't taste bad. However, they are full of stabilizers and emulsifiers and other chemicals. No thanks. I'd rather go for the low-fat versions of those, too.

Two dairy products I urge anyone to run from immediately are fat-free cheese and light butter. The cheese is closer to rubber than anything edible. And light butter tastes like metal. Again, go for smaller quantities of the real deal. Low-fat cheese is OK, but it too can be rubbery for my tastes.

One suggestion I've seen several times in baking recipes is to substitute applesauce for butter. It, too, is an OK substitution. However, your cookies or other baked goods likely will turn out stickier with a fruity flavor. That's certainly good if you are tackling a banana bread or an apple cookie, but not the best for gingersnaps or brownies.

The best options I can offer for dieters on other foods, such as meats, is stick to the premise leaner is better. I prefer chicken breasts, and we cook with them all the time. Pork tenderloins, while a bit expensive, are incredibly delicious. For ground meats, we almost always use ground turkey. However, 96% lean ground beef is actually pretty tasty. Fish is a fantastic option for dieters -- just not this one. I've grown to prefer chicken sausages to the pork variety. And meatless burgers, especially those made of beans, are great.

One thing I want to emphasize, though, is that I refuse to give up the not-as-healthy options. I love lamb, but I choose to have less of it. Bacon is another favorite, but now I buy the center-cut variety and have only one or two slices. I still love to make cookies; I just focus on having one instead of three or four (or more). And there will always be birthdays or holidays or the snack table at work. But I give myself room to enjoy -- and to remember that I will eat healthier tomorrow.

By making a lot of these switches, and by choosing fruits and vegetables as snacks rather than cookies or chips, I've lost 40 pounds. And to throw in another old cliche (albeit a true one): If I can do it, anyone can.

I want to suggest two resources for anyone looking to eat healthier. First, I subscribe to Cooking Light magazine and have for nearly 10 years. Their recipes get better with each issue, and they subscribe (no pun intended) to many of the same beliefs I do. Secondly, I heartily recommend the cookbook "The Best Light Recipe" from the America's Test Kitchens collection. They, too, espouse many of the same views -- and their recipes are incredible!

I'm including two recipes today that are great for this time of year: one for barbecues, and the other to enjoy the delicious summer produce now available.

This recipe is from a 2006 issue of Cooking Light magazine:

Amber Ale Baked Beans

2 cups water
4 (16 oz.) cans pinto beans, rinsed and drained
2 bay leaves
1 (14 oz.) can low-sodium chicken broth
1 medium yellow onion, peeled and quartered
2 bacon slices (uncooked), chopped
2 cups chopped yellow onions (about 2 medium)
1 tbsp. minced garlic
2 tsp. chili powder
3/4 cup ketchup
1/3 cup packed brown sugar
3 tbsp. Dijon mustard
2 tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 (12 oz.) bottle amber ale
Cooking spray

Preheat oven to 300 degrees.

Combine first five ingredients in a Dutch oven; bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 15 minutes. Drain over a large bowl; reserve cooking liquid. Discard onion and bay leaves.

Cook bacon in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat until crisp. Remove bacon from pan, reserving 1 tbsp. drippings in pan; set bacon aside. Add chopped onion to drippings in pan; cook 10 minutes or until golden brown and caramelized, stirring frequently. Add garlic and chili powder; cook 1 minute, stirring frequently. Add ketchup, brown sugar, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, pepper, ale and 1/2 cup reserved bean liquid to pan; bring to a boil. Add beans and bacon. Reduce heat, and simmer for 10 minutes or until slightly thick. Transfer to a 13x9-inch baking dish coated with cooking spray. Bake for 45 minutes or until thick.

This recipe is from "The Best Light Recipe." It is one of Emma's very favorites!

Blueberry Muffins

Cooking spray
2 cups (10 oz.) plus 1 tbsp. unbleached all-purpose flour
1 cup (4 oz.) cake flour
1 tbsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. salt
1 cup (7 oz.) plus 1 tbsp. sugar
4 tbsp. (1/2 stick) butter, softened
2 large eggs
1 tsp. juice from 1 lemon
1 tsp. grated lemon zest (optional)
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 1/2 cups plain low-fat yogurt
2 cups fresh blueberries

Adjust an oven rack to the middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Spray a 12-cup muffin tin with the cooking spray. Whisk 2 cups of the all-purpose flour, cake flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and 1/4 cup of the sugar together in a medium bowl; set aside.

Beat an additional 3/4 cup sugar and the butter with an electric mixer on the medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 3 to 5 minutes, scraping down the sides as needed. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat in the lemon juice, lemon zest (if using) and vanilla until incorporated.

Reduce the mixer speed to low. Beat in one-third of the flour mixture until just incorporated, followed by one-third of the yogurt, scraping down the bowl as needed. Repeat this process twice more, alternating between the remaining flour mixture and yogurt until the ingredients are just incorporated. Do not overmix!

Toss the blueberries with the remaining flour, then gently fold them into the batter with a rubber spatula. Using an ice-cream scoop or measuring cup, divide the batter evenly among the muffin cups, and sprinkle the tops with the remaining tablespoon of sugar. Bake until golden and a toothpick inserted into the center of a muffin comes out with just a few crumbs attached, 25 to 30 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through baking. Cool the muffins in the pan for 5 minutes, then flip them out onto a wire rack and cool for 10 minutes before serving.

Cook's notes: I have substituted low-fat sour cream for the yogurt, and it turns out delicious. The cookbook authors say this recipe makes 12 muffins; each time I've made it, the recipe yields 24.

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

Adaptations, part 1


You can call it coriander, or Chinese parsley. Whatever its name, I cannot get around what one of my newspaper colleagues calls "that devil weed." However, that doesn't mean I disregard a recipe just because it calls for cilantro. In fact, I often relish the challenge it presents.

Cilantro, like most herbs, offers a fresh hit of flavor to many dishes. Just leaving an herb out, though, would take away that freshness from a dish. So, depending on what you are making, I consider a different herb. A straight swap of Italian parsley is nice. However, parsley isn't quite enough. For instance, if I'm making something Italian, a little bit of fresh oregano or basil would be a nice touch. If the dish is more Asian in flavor, I might select some basil or mint. Middle Eastern food also is good with mint. There are some herbs, though, that I am more hesitant to recommend. Tarragon and thyme are delicious, but on their own they are a bit more delicate and are easily overpowered by other flavors.

I've seen some suggestions that a combination of herbs, such as a mix of basil and mint, can somewhat replicate the freshness of cilantro. I have not tried this, but let me know if you have. I'll report back at a later time.

As you may remember, I'm a picky eater. So, I'm often looking for alternatives to ingredients I don't care for. Take bell peppers, for instance. They make me sick, but I enjoy the crunch they provide. One easy swap I've found is celery. The texture is great, but I can see how some people would miss the flavor that the peppers provide.

One adaptation I've made is for onions. I do not like them raw and just omit them in salads. However, I've grown to tolerate them when cooked. If they are sauteed or softened in sauces, soups or stews, they are often unrecognizable but the flavor they provide is mellow.

I also don't eat fish. Not any kind at all. But I've found this not to be a terribly big problem, either. Some kinds of fish with a mild flavor, such as cod, haddock or shrimp, can easily be replaced with chicken or even turkey. Beef could be substituted for some seafood with stronger flavors, such as tuna and some kinds of salmon.

I don't drink alcohol, and that has posed a cooking challenge from time to time. Often I swap wine or whatever alcohol is called for with chicken broth or water, with a bit of vinegar or lemon juice added for a bit of acidity. For sweet recipes, grape, apple or fresh orange juice, sometimes with a splash of vinegar or lemon juice for acidity, can make a nice swap.

These are just a few ideas I have for substitutions. Part 2 will deal with ways to make healthier swaps.

This recipe is a salad recipe in which I swapped fresh basil for cilantro. I also have swapped cucumber or celery for the raw onion. It's from an issue of Bon Appetit magazine.

Corn and Tomato Salad with Cilantro Dressing

3 cups fresh corn kernels (cut from about 6 small ears of corn)
5 medium tomatoes, halved, seeded and chopped
2/3 cup finely chopped red onion
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
2 tbsp. chopped fresh mint
2 tbsp. white wine vinegar
1 tbsp. fresh lime juice
2 tsp. golden brown sugar, packed
1 garlic clove
Salt and fresh-ground black pepper

Combine corn, tomatoes and onion in a large bowl. In a blender, puree oil, cilantro mint, vinegar, lime juice, sugar and garlic until smooth. Pour dressing over corn mixture just before serving.


This recipe is a seafood recipe in which I've substituted chicken for the shrimp. It's from an issue of Bon Appetit magazine.

Tomato, Bulgur and Shrimp Salad

1 1/2 cups plus 2 tbsp. water
3/4 cup bulgur
2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 1/2 tsp. minced garlic
9 oz. cooked, shelled shrimp, diced (about 2 cups)
1 1/4 pounds tomatoes, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 cup diced, seeded peeled cucumber
1/2 cup chopped green onions
1/2 cup chopped fresh basil
1/2 cup chopped fresh mint
2 tbsp. chopped fresh dill

Bring 1 1/2 cups watr to boil in medium saucepan. Stir in bulgur. Remove from heat. Cover and let stand until bulgur is tender, about 40 minutes. Drain well; cool completely.

Whisk oil, lemon juice, garlic and remaining water in large bowl. Add shrimp, tomatoes, cucumber, onions, basil, mint, dill and bulgur; toss to blend. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Friday, May 15, 2009

Celebrating with cupcakes


Emma started at Pied Piper Preschool in Walnut Creek nearly two years ago. Our days at our beloved co-op are nearing an end. When we started the selection process in early 2007, Pied Piper wasn't even on our radar. It was far from our house, and I wasn't really hip on the parent-participation stuff.

Emma and I toured several preschools back then, some of them cooperatives, and all of them had their pluses and minuses. When it came time to pick, Aaron and I were sort of stuck. But Emma eventually made the decision for us -- Pied Piper was the one we couldn't tear her away from. So I rethought my parent-participation hang-ups and enrolled her.

Pied Piper has been an incredible school from Day 1. We adore her teachers, and we think the world of her classmates and their parents. I even found that I liked helping in class.

One part of the co-oping is fundraising. Each family has to contribute so much toward the fundraising efforts. The parents who coordinate the efforts usually make it fairly easy, with family dinners and carnivals, among other events. The spring carnival is our last opportunity to get all of our fundraising hours in for the year. One of the options was to bake cupcakes. Aaron jumped on it right away, and told me that we (read: me) would need to bake 16 for the event. I was thrilled to do it -- and my inner foodie refused to let me get a cake mix. Only the best for these kids, I thought.

I found my recipe, and the first batch just came out of the oven. They are indeed delicious. I only hope these little ones stop to actually taste the cake beneath the icing.

All of us at our house are sad to see our days at Pied Piper come to an end. For me, the last few weeks of school are like cupcakes after a really fantastic dinner -- a sweet ending to a wonderful experience I'll never forget.

This recipe is from "The America's Test Kitchen Family Cookbook."

Easy yellow cupcakes

3 cups cake flour
1 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. baking soda
4 large eggs, at room temperature
2 tsp. vanilla extract
1 1/3 cups sugar
12 tbsp. butter, melted and cooled
1 1/4 cups buttermilk

Adjust an oven rack to the middle position and heat the oven to 325 degrees. Line two muffin pans with cupcake liners. Whisk the flour, baking powder, salt, and baking soda together in a large bowl; set aside.

Whisk the eggs and vanilla together in another large bowl. Slowly whisk in the sugar until combined. Whisk in the melted butter in three additions until completely combined. Whisk in the buttermilk.

Sift one-third of the flour mixture over the batter and whisk it in (a few streaks of flour should remain). Repeat twice with the remaining flour mixture and continue to whisk the batter gently until most of the lumps are gone. Do not overmix!

Fill the cupcake liners about two-thirds full. Bake until a wooden skewer inserted into the center comes out with a few crumbs attached, 18 to 22 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through baking.

Let the cupcakes cool in the pans on wire racks for 5 minutes. Remove from the pans and let cool completely on the racks before frosting, about 1 hour.

The icing recipe is, surprisingly enough, from the back of the C&H powdered sugar box. It's the easiest recipe I've ever found, and it really is delicious.

1 lb. box powdered sugar
1/4 cup milk
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 stick butter, softened

Add sugar, milk, vanilla and butter to the bowl of a stand mixer. Beat for 2 minutes, scraping bowl often. For thinner consistency, add a little more milk, a little at a time. Frosts one 8-inch, 2-layer cake or 24 cupcakes.

For chocolate icing, add 1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder and beat an extra minute. For lemon icing, replace the milk with 1/4 cup lemon juice and add 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest. For orange icing, replace the milk with 1/4 cup orange juice and add 1 tsp. finely grated orange zest. For sour cream tang, add 3 tbsp. sour cream and beat an extra minute.

Cook's notes: I often prefer almond-flavored icing. To do that, omit vanilla extract and add 1/2 tsp. almond extract.

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

My cooking inspiration

It's all my mother's fault (I've always wanted to write this!). About six or seven years ago, she asked me what I wanted for my birthday. I gave her what has become my go-to response, "I would like a really good cookbook."

A few weeks later, my gift came in the mail. It was indeed a cookbook, called "Here in America's Test Kitchens." Before I even opened it, I was not impressed. There were five people on the cover, with what I thought were smug looks on their faces. Who did they think they were? I was already trying to come up with a nice way to tell my mom that I didn't really like it. However, common sense got the better of me and convinced me to actually open it and read it before making such a judgment.

The initial hesitation quickly gave way to curiosity. Why did they make everything dozens of times? What were these taste tests and equipment reviews? After trying a few of the recipes, I became convinced. There was a reason for the smug looks -- they really did know what they were doing.

A few years later, while trying to get my newborn daughter to nap, I stumbled upon a cooking show on PBS. It was the same group. I was embarrassed that it took me so long to put the pieces together. The cookbook was a companion publication to a previous season of shows. I also discovered that they were all part of the Cook's Illustrated publications. Eager to catch up, I logged on to PBS' Web site to find out when the show regularly aired.

Soon after, I started subscribing to the Cook's Illustrated magazine. I loved all the unique features they offered -- quick tips, taste tests of all sorts of ingredients (many of which I whole-heartedly agree with), and the equipment reviews. But I mostly loved the writing and the explanations of how these test cooks tried -- and failed -- and eventually came up with a successful recipe.

When they launched a new magazine, Cook's Country, I signed on for that, too. In the ensuing years, my house has filled with Cook's publications. I have every magazine I've ever gotten from them (Aaron knows better than to recycle them). In addition, my library of their cookbooks has grown. After that first gift from my mother, I've purchased about 10 more of their cookbooks. One, "The America's Test Kitchen Family Cookbook," is my go-to on all things in the kitchen. I liken it to how my mother always suggested checking Betty Crocker.

One subscriber perk that the Cook's folks have offered me is to be a recipe tester. I signed up about a year ago, and occasionally they will e-mail me recipes to try. They then want my opinions about them -- did I like the final result, were the techniques too tough, was it hard to find some of the ingredients, etc. The testing is always optional; for instance, I've skipped recipes that call for fish. But it's a great perk, and I always look forward to their e-mails.

So, for any novice cooks or anyone looking for a new cookbook to check out, turn to the America's Test Kitchens. I've really never been disappointed, and I always learn something new.

These two recipes are from the 2006 book, "The Best Light Recipe," from -- guess who -- the America's Test Kitchen line.

Chicken Pot Pie

Filling:
6 medium carrots, peeled and sliced 1/4-inch thick
2 small celery ribs, sliced 1/4-inch thick
1 medium onion, chopped fine
2 medium garlic cloves, minced or pressed (about 2 tsp.)
2 tsp. minced fresh thyme, or 1/2 tsp. dried thyme
Salt
1 tsp. vegetable oil
1/4 cup dry sherry
3 cups low-sodium chicken broth
2 bay leaves
2 lb. boneless, skinless chicken breasts (about 5), trimmed of excess fat
1/4 cup cornstarch
1/4 cup half-and-half
1 cup frozen green peas
2 tbsp. minced fresh parsley
Ground black pepper

Biscuits:
2 cups (10 oz.) unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. salt
4 tbsp. (1/2 stick) butter, melted
2/3 cup low-fat buttermilk

Adjust an over rack to the lower-middle position and heat the oven to 425 degrees.

For the filling: Combine the carrots, celery, onion, garlic, thyme, oil and 1/2 tsp. salt in a large Dutch oven. Cover and cook over medium-low heat, stirring often, until the vegetables have softened, about 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in the sherry, broth and bay leaves, and bring to a simmer. Nestle the chicken breasts into the sauce. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook until the chicken is no longer pink in the center and the thickest part measures 160 degrees on an instant-read thermometer, about 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a plate; set aside to cool.

Return the sauce to a simmer. Whisk the cornstarch and half-and-half together, then whisk into the simmering sauce. Continue to simmer the sauce until thickened, about 1 minute. Off the heat, discard the bay leaves, stir in the peas and parsley, and season with salt and pepper to taste.

For the biscuits: Whisk the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt together in a large bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk the melted butter and margarine together. Gently stir the buttermilk mixture into the flour mixture with a rubber spatula until just combined and no pockets of flour remain.

To assemble and bake: Pinch off 8 equal pieces of the biscuit dough and arrange them on top of the hot filling, spaced 1/2 inch apart. Bake until the biscuits are golden and the filling is bubbly, about 20 minutes. Cool for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.

Cook's note: I usually omit the sherry (as I don't really ever buy it) and just add an extra 1/4 cup chicken broth and a splash of vinegar for brightness. The parsley can easily be left out, but I prefer the fresh flavor it adds.

Lemon sugar cookies

3/4 cup (3 3/4 oz.) unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 cup (2 oz.) cake flour
1/2 tsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. salt
5 tbsp. butter, softened
1 1/3 cups (9 1/3 oz.) sugar
1 large egg, lightly beaten
3 tsp. lemon zest
1 tbsp. vanilla

Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and heat the oven to 375 degrees. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.

Whisk the flours, baking powder and salt together in a medium bowl; set aside. Using an electric mixer, cream the butter and 1 cup of the sugar together at medium speed until light and fluffy, about 3 to 5 minutes, scraping down the sides as needed. Add the egg, 2 tsp. lemon zest and the vanilla and continue to beat at medium speed until combined, about 30 to 60 seconds. Add the flour mixture and continue to beat at low speed until just combined, 30 to 60 seconds, scraping down the bowl as needed.

Add the remaining 1/3 cup sugar and 1 tsp. lemon zest into a food processor. Process until fragrant, about 10 seconds. Place the sugar mixture into a shallow bowl. Working with a level tablespoon of dough each time, roll the dough into 1-inch balls. (If the dough is too soft to roll, refrigerate it until firm.) Carefully roll the balls in the sugar and place them on the prepared baking sheets, spacing them about 2 1/2 inches apart (you will fit 12 cookies on each baking sheet).

Bake the cookies, one tray at a time, until the edges are lightly golden and the centers are just set, about 9 to 11 minutes, rotating the tray halfway through baking. Do not overbake! Cool the cookies on the baking sheets for 5 minutes, then serve warm or transfer to a wire rack and cool completely. Bake the second tray while the first tray cools. Makes 24.

Cook's note: You can easily leave out the lemon zest. Skip the food processor and just add the 1/3 cup sugar directly to a shallow bowl.

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

Kitchen favorites: Apricots



Until I moved to California, I never really thought much about apricots. They were in season at the same time as my true warm-weather favorite -- nectarines! -- but I just found them kinda expensive with little reward in exchange. How times have changed.

I now look forward to apricots more than almost any fruit of the year. They are in season for such a short period of time, and their sweet-yet-tangy flavor is delectable. So I was thrilled to run across my first apricots of the year at the farmers market today. Emma and I each tried a sample, and she eagerly agreed with me that they were "dee-licious!" We bought about a dozen, and I'm betting that they will be gone in the next 24 hours.

In addition to being served fresh, dried apricots are also delicious. They're used in a variety of foods, including savory and sweet. I personally prefer the California dried apricots to the Turkish ones; however, the difference is slight, and both are wonderful. One of my favorite ways to cook with dried apricots is in Moroccan tagines. If you've never tried one, I can't tell you enough how much you are missing out. You don't even need the fancy clay pot.

Savory and sweet -- my two favorite adjectives for my favorite spring fruit.

I'm including two recipes with apricots: one for a tagine, the other for an apricot granita. Enjoy!

This recipe comes from the 2004 book "Cover & Bake," from the America's Test Kitchen series.

Chicken Tagine with Olives and Lemons

1 tsp. ground ginger
1 1/2 tsp. ground cumin
1 tsp. ground coriander
2 tsp. sweet paprika
Salt
Ground black pepper
3 tbsp. olive oil
8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (about 3 lb.), skinned and trimmed of excess fat
1 large onion, halved and sliced thin
2 tbsp. water
4 garlic cloves, minced or pressed through a garlic press
2 bay leaves
1 3/4 cup low-sodium chicken broth
1/2 cup dried apricots, chopped
1 2-inch strip of lemon peel
3 tbsp. lemon juice
1/2 cup kalamata olives, pitted and chopped coarse
2 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley or cilantro

Adjust an oven rack to the lower-middle position and heat the oven to 300 degrees. Combine the ginger, cumin, coriander, paprika, 1 tsp. salt, 1/4 tsp. black pepper and 2 tbsp. olive oil in a large bowl. Dry the chicken thoroughly with paper towels, then add to the bowl with the spices and toss to coat. Heat the remaining tablespoon of oil in a large ovenproof Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add four of the chicken thighs, skin-side down, and cook without moving them until lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Flip the chicken over and continue to cook until the second side is golden, about 4 more minutes. Transfer to a plate. Add the remaining chicken to the pot and repeat, then transfer to a plate and set aside.

Add the onion and water to the pot with the drippings and return to medium-high heat. Cook, scraping the browned bits off the bottom and edges of the pot, until the onion has softened and is beginning to brown, about 5 to 6 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the bay leaves, chicken broth, apricots, lemon peel and browned chicken with any accumulated juices; bring to a simmer. Cover, transfer to the oven and cook until the chicken is easily pierced with a knife, about 75 minutes.

Transfer the chicken to a serving platter and cover with foil to keep warm. Add the lemon juice and the olives to the sauce; bring to a simmer over medium-high heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has reduced by half, about 8 to 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour the sauce over the chicken and sprinkle with parsley or cilantro. Serve.

Cook's notes: This chicken is best served over some couscous, preferably with almonds in it. I personally prefer the parsley (as noted in the title of this blog). The original recipe calls for golden raisins rather than apricots, but I prefer it with apricots. We omit the olives, as we don't really care for them, and it is delicious either way.

This recipe is from the July 2007 issue of Cooking Light magazine

Apricot Ice with Roasted Almonds

2 tbsp. sugar
3 tbsp. fresh lemon juice (about 1 lemon)
1/8 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. almond extract
1 (11.5 oz.) can apricot nectar
1/4 cup finely chopped honey-roasted almonds

Combine the sugar, lemon juice, salt, almond extract and apricot nectar in an 8-inch baking dish, stirring until the sugar dissolves, Cover and freeze for 45 minutes. Stir nectar mixture with a fork every 45 minutes until completely frozen and slushy, about 3 hours.

Remove nectar mixture from the freezer; scrape with a fork until fluffy. Top with almonds. Serve immediately.

Cook's notes: Roasted almonds, without the honey, are delicious on top of this; I've found honey-roasted almonds hard to find. I prefer the Kern's brand of nectar,

Monday, May 11, 2009

Feeling the love on Mother's Day


One of my favorite days of the year is Mother's Day. My husband and daughter do such a good job of making me feel loved, and I always look forward to the spoiling.

This year was no different. I got to sleep in until 9:30 a.m., an increasingly rare treat nowadays. Aaron and Emma then took me to brunch at Left Bank, a wonderful French restaurant in Pleasant Hill. It's one of the few restaurants that we dine at that seldom disappoints us. Sunday's meal was excellent. The restaurant had a special Mother's Day menu, and I encountered an incredibly difficult decision. I eventually opted for the spinach salad and the Alsatian tart. The salad was fantastic, and it is similar to one that Aaron and I make from time to time. The tart was, surprisingly, like the salad, but on a crisp bread. It had arugula, pecans, pears and blue cheese. I thought it was wonderful -- and I'm convinced I could make a version of it at home. Stay tuned for my experiments with that.

The best treat on Mother's Day, in addition to the beautiful flowers and wonderful cards, was the home-cooked meal from my husband. He asked the night before what I would like, and he told me he would make it. This is a tricky question for me. I usually have dozens of meals I want to try or haven't had in a while, so I sort of surprised myself when I answered right away. Barbecue chicken, polenta and corn on the cob. Aaron outdid himself. The chicken was perfect, the polenta was soft and creamy, and the corn on the cob hit the spot. It was a perfect end to a perfect day!

My favorite kind of barbecue chicken is boneless, skinless chicken breast slathered in barbecue sauce. We prefer the Sweet Baby Ray's brand, but others certainly are delicious. I find corn on the cob is best the day it's bought. We usually grill it, but Sunday we just boiled it for a few minutes.

This recipe for polenta comes from the 2008 book "The Best Slow & Easy Recipes," from the America's Test Kitchen series.

Creamy Baked Polenta

7 cups water
Salt
1 1/2 cups (9 oz.) polenta
2 oz. Parmesan cheese, finely grated (about 1 cup)
4 tbsp. (1/2 stick) butter
1 medium garlic clove, minced or pressed through a garlic press (about 1 tsp.)
Ground black pepper

Adjust an oven rack to the middle position and heat the oven to 350 degrees.

Bring the water to a boil in a large covered Dutch oven over high heat. Remove the lid and stir in 1 1/2 tsp. salt. Very slowly pour the polenta into the boiling liquid while stirring constantly in a circular motion with a wooden spoon.

Cover, place the pot into the oven and bake until the polenta no longer has a raw cornmeal taste and all of the liquid has been absorbed, about 1 hour, stirring well halfway through the cooking time.

Remove the polenta from the oven and stir in the Parmesan, butter and garlic. Season with salt and pepper before serving.

Cook's notes: The recipe recommends coarse or medium-ground cornmeal and to avoid instant polenta. It also recommends using fresh Parmesan rather than pregrated cheese. I concur on this suggestion. The flavor is infinitely better. One other suggestion I have is to avoid the garlic. I find it a bit overpowering for the delicate flavors in this dish. I would add it back, however, if I were to add other flavors to this dish, such as sauteed mushrooms, sauteed asparagus or sun-dried tomatoes.

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Dining destination: Texas


Aaron, Emma and I just got back from our second trip to Texas. We had a great time on our first trip, back in October, and we were eager to head back for another visit.

First stop: Austin. We flew in and out of here on our first trip, and we didn't get much chance to explore. So we scheduled in a day to check out this southwestern hot spot. After checking in to our hotel, we asked the desk clerk for a restaurant recommendation. My only requirement was a local restaurant, preferably not a chain. She suggested Trudy's, a Tex-Mex eatery. It was a good call. The service was great, and the smoked rotisserie chicken tacos were excellent. They came with the spiciest barbecue sauce I've ever had, but it also was delicious.

On our way to Harker Heights, where my dad and stepmom live, we made a stop that Aaron had been looking forward to for months. Those Sonic commercials had gotten into his head, and he wanted to stop for a slush. Aaron enjoyed the slush, but I was disappointed. It was just a fast-food joint, certainly nothing special. But Christina, my stepsister, gave me a tip that turned out to be valuable. She suggested sticking with the limeades. She was right -- the diet cherry limeade was an inexpensive treat.

One night in Killeen, my dad and stepmom treated all of us -- including my half-brother Mike, Christina and her husband, Blair -- to dinner at Nami, a Japanese steakhouse. Aaron and I hadn't been to one in several years, when we had a great meal at the Benihana in Concord. It would be Emma's trip to one of these entertaining restaurants, so I was looking forward to taking her. It was an excellent meal. I had the sukiyaki steak. It was absolutely delicious. In fact, my 4-year-old ate nearly as much of it as I did. A winner -- now I want to try to re-create it at home.

We also had to make one other stop -- at the Mr. Snow shave ice stand. They make the best shave ice we've ever had outside of Hawaii. Even with full bellies after the Japanese meal, we still managed to find some room.

We certainly had some other good things to eat on our trip, including at a crawfish boil in Killeen and at the concession stand at the Texas Rangers' Ballpark in Arlington.

But of all the meals, the best was the Lebanese feast we had on the last night of our trip to celebrate my dad's birthday. Fresh grilled lamb, homemade tabbouleh and tzatziki, pita bread, and a big bowl of olives -- delicious!

One of my goals on the trip was to stick to a healthy diet. I did just OK on the October trip, and I was determined to do better this time around. The results: well, not as good as I'd hoped. But I had a good time and a lot of good things to eat. But an excellent trip -- even better! Thanks, Dad, Jody, Mike, Christina and Blair. We'll be back soon to visit -- and find some more tasty Texas treats.

I'm including a recipe that seems like it should be a Texas favorite, but from what I learned, it isn't. Texans don't like beans in their chili, but this is an excellent recipe nonetheless. This recipe is from the book, "The Best Light Recipe."

Vegetarian Bean Chili

1 tbsp. cumin seeds
1 medium onion, minced
1 large red bell pepper, stemmed seeded and chopped fine
9 medium garlic cloves, minced or pressed through a garlic press (about 3 tbsp.)
3 tbsp. chili powder
1 tbsp. vegetable oil
1/4 tsp. cayenne
Salt
3 cups canned beans, drained and rinsed
2 cups water
1 can (28 oz.) crushed tomatoes
1 tsp. dried oregano
1 tbsp. brown sugar
1 cup corn kernels
1/4 cup. coarsely chopped fresh cilantro leaves
1 tbsp. fresh lime juice

Toast the cumin seeds in a large Dutch oven over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the onion, bell pepper, garlic, chili powder, oil, cayenne and 1/2 tsp. salt. Cover and cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are softened, about 8 to 10 minutes.

Stir in the beans, water, tomatoes, oregano and brown sugar, scraping up any browned bits. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat; reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the chili is slightly thickened, about 25 minutes.

Stir in the corn and continue to simmer until heated through, about 5 to 10 minutes. Off the heat, stir in the cilantro and lime juice, and season with salt to taste.

Cook's notes: Since I can't eat bell peppers, I substitute celery for added crunch. And, as the blog's title suggests, I hold the cilantro. In its place I add some flat-leaf parsley for a fresh flavor. I also have substituted lemon juice in place of the lime juice. The cookbook recommends a mix of black, pinto and kidney beans. I have used that combination and find it excellent.