My cooking inspiration

It's all my mother's fault (I've always wanted to write this!). About six or seven years ago, she asked me what I wanted for my birthday. I gave her what has become my go-to response, "I would like a really good cookbook."

A few weeks later, my gift came in the mail. It was indeed a cookbook, called "Here in America's Test Kitchens." Before I even opened it, I was not impressed. There were five people on the cover, with what I thought were smug looks on their faces. Who did they think they were? I was already trying to come up with a nice way to tell my mom that I didn't really like it. However, common sense got the better of me and convinced me to actually open it and read it before making such a judgment.

The initial hesitation quickly gave way to curiosity. Why did they make everything dozens of times? What were these taste tests and equipment reviews? After trying a few of the recipes, I became convinced. There was a reason for the smug looks -- they really did know what they were doing.

A few years later, while trying to get my newborn daughter to nap, I stumbled upon a cooking show on PBS. It was the same group. I was embarrassed that it took me so long to put the pieces together. The cookbook was a companion publication to a previous season of shows. I also discovered that they were all part of the Cook's Illustrated publications. Eager to catch up, I logged on to PBS' Web site to find out when the show regularly aired.

Soon after, I started subscribing to the Cook's Illustrated magazine. I loved all the unique features they offered -- quick tips, taste tests of all sorts of ingredients (many of which I whole-heartedly agree with), and the equipment reviews. But I mostly loved the writing and the explanations of how these test cooks tried -- and failed -- and eventually came up with a successful recipe.

When they launched a new magazine, Cook's Country, I signed on for that, too. In the ensuing years, my house has filled with Cook's publications. I have every magazine I've ever gotten from them (Aaron knows better than to recycle them). In addition, my library of their cookbooks has grown. After that first gift from my mother, I've purchased about 10 more of their cookbooks. One, "The America's Test Kitchen Family Cookbook," is my go-to on all things in the kitchen. I liken it to how my mother always suggested checking Betty Crocker.

One subscriber perk that the Cook's folks have offered me is to be a recipe tester. I signed up about a year ago, and occasionally they will e-mail me recipes to try. They then want my opinions about them -- did I like the final result, were the techniques too tough, was it hard to find some of the ingredients, etc. The testing is always optional; for instance, I've skipped recipes that call for fish. But it's a great perk, and I always look forward to their e-mails.

So, for any novice cooks or anyone looking for a new cookbook to check out, turn to the America's Test Kitchens. I've really never been disappointed, and I always learn something new.

These two recipes are from the 2006 book, "The Best Light Recipe," from -- guess who -- the America's Test Kitchen line.

Chicken Pot Pie

Filling:
6 medium carrots, peeled and sliced 1/4-inch thick
2 small celery ribs, sliced 1/4-inch thick
1 medium onion, chopped fine
2 medium garlic cloves, minced or pressed (about 2 tsp.)
2 tsp. minced fresh thyme, or 1/2 tsp. dried thyme
Salt
1 tsp. vegetable oil
1/4 cup dry sherry
3 cups low-sodium chicken broth
2 bay leaves
2 lb. boneless, skinless chicken breasts (about 5), trimmed of excess fat
1/4 cup cornstarch
1/4 cup half-and-half
1 cup frozen green peas
2 tbsp. minced fresh parsley
Ground black pepper

Biscuits:
2 cups (10 oz.) unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. salt
4 tbsp. (1/2 stick) butter, melted
2/3 cup low-fat buttermilk

Adjust an over rack to the lower-middle position and heat the oven to 425 degrees.

For the filling: Combine the carrots, celery, onion, garlic, thyme, oil and 1/2 tsp. salt in a large Dutch oven. Cover and cook over medium-low heat, stirring often, until the vegetables have softened, about 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in the sherry, broth and bay leaves, and bring to a simmer. Nestle the chicken breasts into the sauce. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook until the chicken is no longer pink in the center and the thickest part measures 160 degrees on an instant-read thermometer, about 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a plate; set aside to cool.

Return the sauce to a simmer. Whisk the cornstarch and half-and-half together, then whisk into the simmering sauce. Continue to simmer the sauce until thickened, about 1 minute. Off the heat, discard the bay leaves, stir in the peas and parsley, and season with salt and pepper to taste.

For the biscuits: Whisk the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt together in a large bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk the melted butter and margarine together. Gently stir the buttermilk mixture into the flour mixture with a rubber spatula until just combined and no pockets of flour remain.

To assemble and bake: Pinch off 8 equal pieces of the biscuit dough and arrange them on top of the hot filling, spaced 1/2 inch apart. Bake until the biscuits are golden and the filling is bubbly, about 20 minutes. Cool for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.

Cook's note: I usually omit the sherry (as I don't really ever buy it) and just add an extra 1/4 cup chicken broth and a splash of vinegar for brightness. The parsley can easily be left out, but I prefer the fresh flavor it adds.

Lemon sugar cookies

3/4 cup (3 3/4 oz.) unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 cup (2 oz.) cake flour
1/2 tsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. salt
5 tbsp. butter, softened
1 1/3 cups (9 1/3 oz.) sugar
1 large egg, lightly beaten
3 tsp. lemon zest
1 tbsp. vanilla

Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and heat the oven to 375 degrees. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.

Whisk the flours, baking powder and salt together in a medium bowl; set aside. Using an electric mixer, cream the butter and 1 cup of the sugar together at medium speed until light and fluffy, about 3 to 5 minutes, scraping down the sides as needed. Add the egg, 2 tsp. lemon zest and the vanilla and continue to beat at medium speed until combined, about 30 to 60 seconds. Add the flour mixture and continue to beat at low speed until just combined, 30 to 60 seconds, scraping down the bowl as needed.

Add the remaining 1/3 cup sugar and 1 tsp. lemon zest into a food processor. Process until fragrant, about 10 seconds. Place the sugar mixture into a shallow bowl. Working with a level tablespoon of dough each time, roll the dough into 1-inch balls. (If the dough is too soft to roll, refrigerate it until firm.) Carefully roll the balls in the sugar and place them on the prepared baking sheets, spacing them about 2 1/2 inches apart (you will fit 12 cookies on each baking sheet).

Bake the cookies, one tray at a time, until the edges are lightly golden and the centers are just set, about 9 to 11 minutes, rotating the tray halfway through baking. Do not overbake! Cool the cookies on the baking sheets for 5 minutes, then serve warm or transfer to a wire rack and cool completely. Bake the second tray while the first tray cools. Makes 24.

Cook's note: You can easily leave out the lemon zest. Skip the food processor and just add the 1/3 cup sugar directly to a shallow bowl.