Adaptations, Part 2

I've been on the Weight Watchers program for 14 months. It certainly hasn't been easy, but it has further reinforced the idea that for every unhealthy meal, there is a better choice to be made. With this in mind, I headed to my kitchen to start making some of my family's meals healthier.

First off, I want to get rid of the idea that food has to be fat-free or no-carb to lose weight. It's completely ridiculous. In fact, after some experimenting, I've found that in most cases I would rather have a smaller portion of something that tastes good than something full of fat-free products that is awful.

So, on to the adaptations. In my railings against fat-free products, I will start with fat-free condiments. To use an old, cliched saying: Just say no. For salad dressings and mayonnaise, go for the low-fat alternative each time. For some people, however, those options are unacceptable as well. So I have found alternatives to those, too.

I have discovered that unless mayonnaise is slathered on a sandwich, I don't even really notice it. Instead, I use a bit more mustard (yellow is my favorite -- don't laugh!) and omit the mayo altogether. I also add more pickles (another favorite!) and some extra tomatoes. I rarely have a sandwich disappoint me that way.

For salads, I have discovered that I don't need a lot of dressing to make it taste good. At our house, we always have a bottle of Newman's Own Light Balsamic Vinaigrette in the fridge. And a bottle of low-fat Hidden Valley Ranch. They taste good, and we don't miss what has been taken out. If those don't appeal to you, one trick I've tried in the past is to find a really nice bottle of balsamic vinegar -- one flavored with fruit, if possible (blackberry is my favorite) -- and just drizzle a bit of it over your salad. It's delicious and costs very few calories.

Dairy is another problem for dieters. I prefer skim milk and enjoy fat-free yogurt, but I pretty much draw the line after that on fat-free dairy products. Some, such as fat-free sour cream and half-and-half, don't taste bad. However, they are full of stabilizers and emulsifiers and other chemicals. No thanks. I'd rather go for the low-fat versions of those, too.

Two dairy products I urge anyone to run from immediately are fat-free cheese and light butter. The cheese is closer to rubber than anything edible. And light butter tastes like metal. Again, go for smaller quantities of the real deal. Low-fat cheese is OK, but it too can be rubbery for my tastes.

One suggestion I've seen several times in baking recipes is to substitute applesauce for butter. It, too, is an OK substitution. However, your cookies or other baked goods likely will turn out stickier with a fruity flavor. That's certainly good if you are tackling a banana bread or an apple cookie, but not the best for gingersnaps or brownies.

The best options I can offer for dieters on other foods, such as meats, is stick to the premise leaner is better. I prefer chicken breasts, and we cook with them all the time. Pork tenderloins, while a bit expensive, are incredibly delicious. For ground meats, we almost always use ground turkey. However, 96% lean ground beef is actually pretty tasty. Fish is a fantastic option for dieters -- just not this one. I've grown to prefer chicken sausages to the pork variety. And meatless burgers, especially those made of beans, are great.

One thing I want to emphasize, though, is that I refuse to give up the not-as-healthy options. I love lamb, but I choose to have less of it. Bacon is another favorite, but now I buy the center-cut variety and have only one or two slices. I still love to make cookies; I just focus on having one instead of three or four (or more). And there will always be birthdays or holidays or the snack table at work. But I give myself room to enjoy -- and to remember that I will eat healthier tomorrow.

By making a lot of these switches, and by choosing fruits and vegetables as snacks rather than cookies or chips, I've lost 40 pounds. And to throw in another old cliche (albeit a true one): If I can do it, anyone can.

I want to suggest two resources for anyone looking to eat healthier. First, I subscribe to Cooking Light magazine and have for nearly 10 years. Their recipes get better with each issue, and they subscribe (no pun intended) to many of the same beliefs I do. Secondly, I heartily recommend the cookbook "The Best Light Recipe" from the America's Test Kitchens collection. They, too, espouse many of the same views -- and their recipes are incredible!

I'm including two recipes today that are great for this time of year: one for barbecues, and the other to enjoy the delicious summer produce now available.

This recipe is from a 2006 issue of Cooking Light magazine:

Amber Ale Baked Beans

2 cups water
4 (16 oz.) cans pinto beans, rinsed and drained
2 bay leaves
1 (14 oz.) can low-sodium chicken broth
1 medium yellow onion, peeled and quartered
2 bacon slices (uncooked), chopped
2 cups chopped yellow onions (about 2 medium)
1 tbsp. minced garlic
2 tsp. chili powder
3/4 cup ketchup
1/3 cup packed brown sugar
3 tbsp. Dijon mustard
2 tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 (12 oz.) bottle amber ale
Cooking spray

Preheat oven to 300 degrees.

Combine first five ingredients in a Dutch oven; bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 15 minutes. Drain over a large bowl; reserve cooking liquid. Discard onion and bay leaves.

Cook bacon in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat until crisp. Remove bacon from pan, reserving 1 tbsp. drippings in pan; set bacon aside. Add chopped onion to drippings in pan; cook 10 minutes or until golden brown and caramelized, stirring frequently. Add garlic and chili powder; cook 1 minute, stirring frequently. Add ketchup, brown sugar, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, pepper, ale and 1/2 cup reserved bean liquid to pan; bring to a boil. Add beans and bacon. Reduce heat, and simmer for 10 minutes or until slightly thick. Transfer to a 13x9-inch baking dish coated with cooking spray. Bake for 45 minutes or until thick.

This recipe is from "The Best Light Recipe." It is one of Emma's very favorites!

Blueberry Muffins

Cooking spray
2 cups (10 oz.) plus 1 tbsp. unbleached all-purpose flour
1 cup (4 oz.) cake flour
1 tbsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. salt
1 cup (7 oz.) plus 1 tbsp. sugar
4 tbsp. (1/2 stick) butter, softened
2 large eggs
1 tsp. juice from 1 lemon
1 tsp. grated lemon zest (optional)
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 1/2 cups plain low-fat yogurt
2 cups fresh blueberries

Adjust an oven rack to the middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Spray a 12-cup muffin tin with the cooking spray. Whisk 2 cups of the all-purpose flour, cake flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and 1/4 cup of the sugar together in a medium bowl; set aside.

Beat an additional 3/4 cup sugar and the butter with an electric mixer on the medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 3 to 5 minutes, scraping down the sides as needed. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat in the lemon juice, lemon zest (if using) and vanilla until incorporated.

Reduce the mixer speed to low. Beat in one-third of the flour mixture until just incorporated, followed by one-third of the yogurt, scraping down the bowl as needed. Repeat this process twice more, alternating between the remaining flour mixture and yogurt until the ingredients are just incorporated. Do not overmix!

Toss the blueberries with the remaining flour, then gently fold them into the batter with a rubber spatula. Using an ice-cream scoop or measuring cup, divide the batter evenly among the muffin cups, and sprinkle the tops with the remaining tablespoon of sugar. Bake until golden and a toothpick inserted into the center of a muffin comes out with just a few crumbs attached, 25 to 30 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through baking. Cool the muffins in the pan for 5 minutes, then flip them out onto a wire rack and cool for 10 minutes before serving.

Cook's notes: I have substituted low-fat sour cream for the yogurt, and it turns out delicious. The cookbook authors say this recipe makes 12 muffins; each time I've made it, the recipe yields 24.

Adaptations, part 1

You can call it coriander, or Chinese parsley. Whatever its name, I cannot get around what one of my newspaper colleagues calls "that devil weed." However, that doesn't mean I disregard a recipe just because it calls for cilantro. In fact, I often relish the challenge it presents.

Cilantro, like most herbs, offers a fresh hit of flavor to many dishes. Just leaving an herb out, though, would take away that freshness from a dish. So, depending on what you are making, I consider a different herb. A straight swap of Italian parsley is nice. However, parsley isn't quite enough. For instance, if I'm making something Italian, a little bit of fresh oregano or basil would be a nice touch. If the dish is more Asian in flavor, I might select some basil or mint. Middle Eastern food also is good with mint. There are some herbs, though, that I am more hesitant to recommend. Tarragon and thyme are delicious, but on their own they are a bit more delicate and are easily overpowered by other flavors.

I've seen some suggestions that a combination of herbs, such as a mix of basil and mint, can somewhat replicate the freshness of cilantro. I have not tried this, but let me know if you have. I'll report back at a later time.

As you may remember, I'm a picky eater. So, I'm often looking for alternatives to ingredients I don't care for. Take bell peppers, for instance. They make me sick, but I enjoy the crunch they provide. One easy swap I've found is celery. The texture is great, but I can see how some people would miss the flavor that the peppers provide.

One adaptation I've made is for onions. I do not like them raw and just omit them in salads. However, I've grown to tolerate them when cooked. If they are sauteed or softened in sauces, soups or stews, they are often unrecognizable but the flavor they provide is mellow.

I also don't eat fish. Not any kind at all. But I've found this not to be a terribly big problem, either. Some kinds of fish with a mild flavor, such as cod, haddock or shrimp, can easily be replaced with chicken or even turkey. Beef could be substituted for some seafood with stronger flavors, such as tuna and some kinds of salmon.

I don't drink alcohol, and that has posed a cooking challenge from time to time. Often I swap wine or whatever alcohol is called for with chicken broth or water, with a bit of vinegar or lemon juice added for a bit of acidity. For sweet recipes, grape, apple or fresh orange juice, sometimes with a splash of vinegar or lemon juice for acidity, can make a nice swap.

These are just a few ideas I have for substitutions. Part 2 will deal with ways to make healthier swaps.

This recipe is a salad recipe in which I swapped fresh basil for cilantro. I also have swapped cucumber or celery for the raw onion. It's from an issue of Bon Appetit magazine.

Corn and Tomato Salad with Cilantro Dressing

3 cups fresh corn kernels (cut from about 6 small ears of corn)
5 medium tomatoes, halved, seeded and chopped
2/3 cup finely chopped red onion
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
2 tbsp. chopped fresh mint
2 tbsp. white wine vinegar
1 tbsp. fresh lime juice
2 tsp. golden brown sugar, packed
1 garlic clove
Salt and fresh-ground black pepper

Combine corn, tomatoes and onion in a large bowl. In a blender, puree oil, cilantro mint, vinegar, lime juice, sugar and garlic until smooth. Pour dressing over corn mixture just before serving.


This recipe is a seafood recipe in which I've substituted chicken for the shrimp. It's from an issue of Bon Appetit magazine.

Tomato, Bulgur and Shrimp Salad

1 1/2 cups plus 2 tbsp. water
3/4 cup bulgur
2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 1/2 tsp. minced garlic
9 oz. cooked, shelled shrimp, diced (about 2 cups)
1 1/4 pounds tomatoes, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 cup diced, seeded peeled cucumber
1/2 cup chopped green onions
1/2 cup chopped fresh basil
1/2 cup chopped fresh mint
2 tbsp. chopped fresh dill

Bring 1 1/2 cups watr to boil in medium saucepan. Stir in bulgur. Remove from heat. Cover and let stand until bulgur is tender, about 40 minutes. Drain well; cool completely.

Whisk oil, lemon juice, garlic and remaining water in large bowl. Add shrimp, tomatoes, cucumber, onions, basil, mint, dill and bulgur; toss to blend. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Celebrating with cupcakes

Emma started at Pied Piper Preschool in Walnut Creek nearly two years ago. Our days at our beloved co-op are nearing an end. When we started the selection process in early 2007, Pied Piper wasn't even on our radar. It was far from our house, and I wasn't really hip on the parent-participation stuff.

Emma and I toured several preschools back then, some of them cooperatives, and all of them had their pluses and minuses. When it came time to pick, Aaron and I were sort of stuck. But Emma eventually made the decision for us -- Pied Piper was the one we couldn't tear her away from. So I rethought my parent-participation hang-ups and enrolled her.

Pied Piper has been an incredible school from Day 1. We adore her teachers, and we think the world of her classmates and their parents. I even found that I liked helping in class.

One part of the co-oping is fundraising. Each family has to contribute so much toward the fundraising efforts. The parents who coordinate the efforts usually make it fairly easy, with family dinners and carnivals, among other events. The spring carnival is our last opportunity to get all of our fundraising hours in for the year. One of the options was to bake cupcakes. Aaron jumped on it right away, and told me that we (read: me) would need to bake 16 for the event. I was thrilled to do it -- and my inner foodie refused to let me get a cake mix. Only the best for these kids, I thought.

I found my recipe, and the first batch just came out of the oven. They are indeed delicious. I only hope these little ones stop to actually taste the cake beneath the icing.

All of us at our house are sad to see our days at Pied Piper come to an end. For me, the last few weeks of school are like cupcakes after a really fantastic dinner -- a sweet ending to a wonderful experience I'll never forget.

This recipe is from "The America's Test Kitchen Family Cookbook."

Easy yellow cupcakes

3 cups cake flour
1 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. baking soda
4 large eggs, at room temperature
2 tsp. vanilla extract
1 1/3 cups sugar
12 tbsp. butter, melted and cooled
1 1/4 cups buttermilk

Adjust an oven rack to the middle position and heat the oven to 325 degrees. Line two muffin pans with cupcake liners. Whisk the flour, baking powder, salt, and baking soda together in a large bowl; set aside.

Whisk the eggs and vanilla together in another large bowl. Slowly whisk in the sugar until combined. Whisk in the melted butter in three additions until completely combined. Whisk in the buttermilk.

Sift one-third of the flour mixture over the batter and whisk it in (a few streaks of flour should remain). Repeat twice with the remaining flour mixture and continue to whisk the batter gently until most of the lumps are gone. Do not overmix!

Fill the cupcake liners about two-thirds full. Bake until a wooden skewer inserted into the center comes out with a few crumbs attached, 18 to 22 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through baking.

Let the cupcakes cool in the pans on wire racks for 5 minutes. Remove from the pans and let cool completely on the racks before frosting, about 1 hour.

The icing recipe is, surprisingly enough, from the back of the C&H powdered sugar box. It's the easiest recipe I've ever found, and it really is delicious.

1 lb. box powdered sugar
1/4 cup milk
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 stick butter, softened

Add sugar, milk, vanilla and butter to the bowl of a stand mixer. Beat for 2 minutes, scraping bowl often. For thinner consistency, add a little more milk, a little at a time. Frosts one 8-inch, 2-layer cake or 24 cupcakes.

For chocolate icing, add 1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder and beat an extra minute. For lemon icing, replace the milk with 1/4 cup lemon juice and add 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest. For orange icing, replace the milk with 1/4 cup orange juice and add 1 tsp. finely grated orange zest. For sour cream tang, add 3 tbsp. sour cream and beat an extra minute.

Cook's notes: I often prefer almond-flavored icing. To do that, omit vanilla extract and add 1/2 tsp. almond extract.

My cooking inspiration

It's all my mother's fault (I've always wanted to write this!). About six or seven years ago, she asked me what I wanted for my birthday. I gave her what has become my go-to response, "I would like a really good cookbook."

A few weeks later, my gift came in the mail. It was indeed a cookbook, called "Here in America's Test Kitchens." Before I even opened it, I was not impressed. There were five people on the cover, with what I thought were smug looks on their faces. Who did they think they were? I was already trying to come up with a nice way to tell my mom that I didn't really like it. However, common sense got the better of me and convinced me to actually open it and read it before making such a judgment.

The initial hesitation quickly gave way to curiosity. Why did they make everything dozens of times? What were these taste tests and equipment reviews? After trying a few of the recipes, I became convinced. There was a reason for the smug looks -- they really did know what they were doing.

A few years later, while trying to get my newborn daughter to nap, I stumbled upon a cooking show on PBS. It was the same group. I was embarrassed that it took me so long to put the pieces together. The cookbook was a companion publication to a previous season of shows. I also discovered that they were all part of the Cook's Illustrated publications. Eager to catch up, I logged on to PBS' Web site to find out when the show regularly aired.

Soon after, I started subscribing to the Cook's Illustrated magazine. I loved all the unique features they offered -- quick tips, taste tests of all sorts of ingredients (many of which I whole-heartedly agree with), and the equipment reviews. But I mostly loved the writing and the explanations of how these test cooks tried -- and failed -- and eventually came up with a successful recipe.

When they launched a new magazine, Cook's Country, I signed on for that, too. In the ensuing years, my house has filled with Cook's publications. I have every magazine I've ever gotten from them (Aaron knows better than to recycle them). In addition, my library of their cookbooks has grown. After that first gift from my mother, I've purchased about 10 more of their cookbooks. One, "The America's Test Kitchen Family Cookbook," is my go-to on all things in the kitchen. I liken it to how my mother always suggested checking Betty Crocker.

One subscriber perk that the Cook's folks have offered me is to be a recipe tester. I signed up about a year ago, and occasionally they will e-mail me recipes to try. They then want my opinions about them -- did I like the final result, were the techniques too tough, was it hard to find some of the ingredients, etc. The testing is always optional; for instance, I've skipped recipes that call for fish. But it's a great perk, and I always look forward to their e-mails.

So, for any novice cooks or anyone looking for a new cookbook to check out, turn to the America's Test Kitchens. I've really never been disappointed, and I always learn something new.

These two recipes are from the 2006 book, "The Best Light Recipe," from -- guess who -- the America's Test Kitchen line.

Chicken Pot Pie

Filling:
6 medium carrots, peeled and sliced 1/4-inch thick
2 small celery ribs, sliced 1/4-inch thick
1 medium onion, chopped fine
2 medium garlic cloves, minced or pressed (about 2 tsp.)
2 tsp. minced fresh thyme, or 1/2 tsp. dried thyme
Salt
1 tsp. vegetable oil
1/4 cup dry sherry
3 cups low-sodium chicken broth
2 bay leaves
2 lb. boneless, skinless chicken breasts (about 5), trimmed of excess fat
1/4 cup cornstarch
1/4 cup half-and-half
1 cup frozen green peas
2 tbsp. minced fresh parsley
Ground black pepper

Biscuits:
2 cups (10 oz.) unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. salt
4 tbsp. (1/2 stick) butter, melted
2/3 cup low-fat buttermilk

Adjust an over rack to the lower-middle position and heat the oven to 425 degrees.

For the filling: Combine the carrots, celery, onion, garlic, thyme, oil and 1/2 tsp. salt in a large Dutch oven. Cover and cook over medium-low heat, stirring often, until the vegetables have softened, about 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in the sherry, broth and bay leaves, and bring to a simmer. Nestle the chicken breasts into the sauce. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook until the chicken is no longer pink in the center and the thickest part measures 160 degrees on an instant-read thermometer, about 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a plate; set aside to cool.

Return the sauce to a simmer. Whisk the cornstarch and half-and-half together, then whisk into the simmering sauce. Continue to simmer the sauce until thickened, about 1 minute. Off the heat, discard the bay leaves, stir in the peas and parsley, and season with salt and pepper to taste.

For the biscuits: Whisk the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt together in a large bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk the melted butter and margarine together. Gently stir the buttermilk mixture into the flour mixture with a rubber spatula until just combined and no pockets of flour remain.

To assemble and bake: Pinch off 8 equal pieces of the biscuit dough and arrange them on top of the hot filling, spaced 1/2 inch apart. Bake until the biscuits are golden and the filling is bubbly, about 20 minutes. Cool for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.

Cook's note: I usually omit the sherry (as I don't really ever buy it) and just add an extra 1/4 cup chicken broth and a splash of vinegar for brightness. The parsley can easily be left out, but I prefer the fresh flavor it adds.

Lemon sugar cookies

3/4 cup (3 3/4 oz.) unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 cup (2 oz.) cake flour
1/2 tsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. salt
5 tbsp. butter, softened
1 1/3 cups (9 1/3 oz.) sugar
1 large egg, lightly beaten
3 tsp. lemon zest
1 tbsp. vanilla

Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and heat the oven to 375 degrees. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.

Whisk the flours, baking powder and salt together in a medium bowl; set aside. Using an electric mixer, cream the butter and 1 cup of the sugar together at medium speed until light and fluffy, about 3 to 5 minutes, scraping down the sides as needed. Add the egg, 2 tsp. lemon zest and the vanilla and continue to beat at medium speed until combined, about 30 to 60 seconds. Add the flour mixture and continue to beat at low speed until just combined, 30 to 60 seconds, scraping down the bowl as needed.

Add the remaining 1/3 cup sugar and 1 tsp. lemon zest into a food processor. Process until fragrant, about 10 seconds. Place the sugar mixture into a shallow bowl. Working with a level tablespoon of dough each time, roll the dough into 1-inch balls. (If the dough is too soft to roll, refrigerate it until firm.) Carefully roll the balls in the sugar and place them on the prepared baking sheets, spacing them about 2 1/2 inches apart (you will fit 12 cookies on each baking sheet).

Bake the cookies, one tray at a time, until the edges are lightly golden and the centers are just set, about 9 to 11 minutes, rotating the tray halfway through baking. Do not overbake! Cool the cookies on the baking sheets for 5 minutes, then serve warm or transfer to a wire rack and cool completely. Bake the second tray while the first tray cools. Makes 24.

Cook's note: You can easily leave out the lemon zest. Skip the food processor and just add the 1/3 cup sugar directly to a shallow bowl.

Kitchen favorites: Apricots

Until I moved to California, I never really thought much about apricots. They were in season at the same time as my true warm-weather favorite -- nectarines! -- but I just found them kinda expensive with little reward in exchange. How times have changed.

I now look forward to apricots more than almost any fruit of the year. They are in season for such a short period of time, and their sweet-yet-tangy flavor is delectable. So I was thrilled to run across my first apricots of the year at the farmers market today. Emma and I each tried a sample, and she eagerly agreed with me that they were "dee-licious!" We bought about a dozen, and I'm betting that they will be gone in the next 24 hours.

In addition to being served fresh, dried apricots are also delicious. They're used in a variety of foods, including savory and sweet. I personally prefer the California dried apricots to the Turkish ones; however, the difference is slight, and both are wonderful. One of my favorite ways to cook with dried apricots is in Moroccan tagines. If you've never tried one, I can't tell you enough how much you are missing out. You don't even need the fancy clay pot.

Savory and sweet -- my two favorite adjectives for my favorite spring fruit.

I'm including two recipes with apricots: one for a tagine, the other for an apricot granita. Enjoy!

This recipe comes from the 2004 book "Cover & Bake," from the America's Test Kitchen series.

Chicken Tagine with Olives and Lemons

1 tsp. ground ginger
1 1/2 tsp. ground cumin
1 tsp. ground coriander
2 tsp. sweet paprika
Salt
Ground black pepper
3 tbsp. olive oil
8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (about 3 lb.), skinned and trimmed of excess fat
1 large onion, halved and sliced thin
2 tbsp. water
4 garlic cloves, minced or pressed through a garlic press
2 bay leaves
1 3/4 cup low-sodium chicken broth
1/2 cup dried apricots, chopped
1 2-inch strip of lemon peel
3 tbsp. lemon juice
1/2 cup kalamata olives, pitted and chopped coarse
2 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley or cilantro

Adjust an oven rack to the lower-middle position and heat the oven to 300 degrees. Combine the ginger, cumin, coriander, paprika, 1 tsp. salt, 1/4 tsp. black pepper and 2 tbsp. olive oil in a large bowl. Dry the chicken thoroughly with paper towels, then add to the bowl with the spices and toss to coat. Heat the remaining tablespoon of oil in a large ovenproof Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add four of the chicken thighs, skin-side down, and cook without moving them until lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Flip the chicken over and continue to cook until the second side is golden, about 4 more minutes. Transfer to a plate. Add the remaining chicken to the pot and repeat, then transfer to a plate and set aside.

Add the onion and water to the pot with the drippings and return to medium-high heat. Cook, scraping the browned bits off the bottom and edges of the pot, until the onion has softened and is beginning to brown, about 5 to 6 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the bay leaves, chicken broth, apricots, lemon peel and browned chicken with any accumulated juices; bring to a simmer. Cover, transfer to the oven and cook until the chicken is easily pierced with a knife, about 75 minutes.

Transfer the chicken to a serving platter and cover with foil to keep warm. Add the lemon juice and the olives to the sauce; bring to a simmer over medium-high heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has reduced by half, about 8 to 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour the sauce over the chicken and sprinkle with parsley or cilantro. Serve.

Cook's notes: This chicken is best served over some couscous, preferably with almonds in it. I personally prefer the parsley (as noted in the title of this blog). The original recipe calls for golden raisins rather than apricots, but I prefer it with apricots. We omit the olives, as we don't really care for them, and it is delicious either way.

This recipe is from the July 2007 issue of Cooking Light magazine

Apricot Ice with Roasted Almonds

2 tbsp. sugar
3 tbsp. fresh lemon juice (about 1 lemon)
1/8 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. almond extract
1 (11.5 oz.) can apricot nectar
1/4 cup finely chopped honey-roasted almonds

Combine the sugar, lemon juice, salt, almond extract and apricot nectar in an 8-inch baking dish, stirring until the sugar dissolves, Cover and freeze for 45 minutes. Stir nectar mixture with a fork every 45 minutes until completely frozen and slushy, about 3 hours.

Remove nectar mixture from the freezer; scrape with a fork until fluffy. Top with almonds. Serve immediately.

Cook's notes: Roasted almonds, without the honey, are delicious on top of this; I've found honey-roasted almonds hard to find. I prefer the Kern's brand of nectar,

Feeling the love on Mother's Day

One of my favorite days of the year is Mother's Day. My husband and daughter do such a good job of making me feel loved, and I always look forward to the spoiling.

This year was no different. I got to sleep in until 9:30 a.m., an increasingly rare treat nowadays. Aaron and Emma then took me to brunch at Left Bank, a wonderful French restaurant in Pleasant Hill. It's one of the few restaurants that we dine at that seldom disappoints us. Sunday's meal was excellent. The restaurant had a special Mother's Day menu, and I encountered an incredibly difficult decision. I eventually opted for the spinach salad and the Alsatian tart. The salad was fantastic, and it is similar to one that Aaron and I make from time to time. The tart was, surprisingly, like the salad, but on a crisp bread. It had arugula, pecans, pears and blue cheese. I thought it was wonderful -- and I'm convinced I could make a version of it at home. Stay tuned for my experiments with that.

The best treat on Mother's Day, in addition to the beautiful flowers and wonderful cards, was the home-cooked meal from my husband. He asked the night before what I would like, and he told me he would make it. This is a tricky question for me. I usually have dozens of meals I want to try or haven't had in a while, so I sort of surprised myself when I answered right away. Barbecue chicken, polenta and corn on the cob. Aaron outdid himself. The chicken was perfect, the polenta was soft and creamy, and the corn on the cob hit the spot. It was a perfect end to a perfect day!

My favorite kind of barbecue chicken is boneless, skinless chicken breast slathered in barbecue sauce. We prefer the Sweet Baby Ray's brand, but others certainly are delicious. I find corn on the cob is best the day it's bought. We usually grill it, but Sunday we just boiled it for a few minutes.

This recipe for polenta comes from the 2008 book "The Best Slow & Easy Recipes," from the America's Test Kitchen series.

Creamy Baked Polenta

7 cups water
Salt
1 1/2 cups (9 oz.) polenta
2 oz. Parmesan cheese, finely grated (about 1 cup)
4 tbsp. (1/2 stick) butter
1 medium garlic clove, minced or pressed through a garlic press (about 1 tsp.)
Ground black pepper

Adjust an oven rack to the middle position and heat the oven to 350 degrees.

Bring the water to a boil in a large covered Dutch oven over high heat. Remove the lid and stir in 1 1/2 tsp. salt. Very slowly pour the polenta into the boiling liquid while stirring constantly in a circular motion with a wooden spoon.

Cover, place the pot into the oven and bake until the polenta no longer has a raw cornmeal taste and all of the liquid has been absorbed, about 1 hour, stirring well halfway through the cooking time.

Remove the polenta from the oven and stir in the Parmesan, butter and garlic. Season with salt and pepper before serving.

Cook's notes: The recipe recommends coarse or medium-ground cornmeal and to avoid instant polenta. It also recommends using fresh Parmesan rather than pregrated cheese. I concur on this suggestion. The flavor is infinitely better. One other suggestion I have is to avoid the garlic. I find it a bit overpowering for the delicate flavors in this dish. I would add it back, however, if I were to add other flavors to this dish, such as sauteed mushrooms, sauteed asparagus or sun-dried tomatoes.

Dining destination: Texas

Aaron, Emma and I just got back from our second trip to Texas. We had a great time on our first trip, back in October, and we were eager to head back for another visit.

First stop: Austin. We flew in and out of here on our first trip, and we didn't get much chance to explore. So we scheduled in a day to check out this southwestern hot spot. After checking in to our hotel, we asked the desk clerk for a restaurant recommendation. My only requirement was a local restaurant, preferably not a chain. She suggested Trudy's, a Tex-Mex eatery. It was a good call. The service was great, and the smoked rotisserie chicken tacos were excellent. They came with the spiciest barbecue sauce I've ever had, but it also was delicious.

On our way to Harker Heights, where my dad and stepmom live, we made a stop that Aaron had been looking forward to for months. Those Sonic commercials had gotten into his head, and he wanted to stop for a slush. Aaron enjoyed the slush, but I was disappointed. It was just a fast-food joint, certainly nothing special. But Christina, my stepsister, gave me a tip that turned out to be valuable. She suggested sticking with the limeades. She was right -- the diet cherry limeade was an inexpensive treat.

One night in Killeen, my dad and stepmom treated all of us -- including my half-brother Mike, Christina and her husband, Blair -- to dinner at Nami, a Japanese steakhouse. Aaron and I hadn't been to one in several years, when we had a great meal at the Benihana in Concord. It would be Emma's trip to one of these entertaining restaurants, so I was looking forward to taking her. It was an excellent meal. I had the sukiyaki steak. It was absolutely delicious. In fact, my 4-year-old ate nearly as much of it as I did. A winner -- now I want to try to re-create it at home.

We also had to make one other stop -- at the Mr. Snow shave ice stand. They make the best shave ice we've ever had outside of Hawaii. Even with full bellies after the Japanese meal, we still managed to find some room.

We certainly had some other good things to eat on our trip, including at a crawfish boil in Killeen and at the concession stand at the Texas Rangers' Ballpark in Arlington.

But of all the meals, the best was the Lebanese feast we had on the last night of our trip to celebrate my dad's birthday. Fresh grilled lamb, homemade tabbouleh and tzatziki, pita bread, and a big bowl of olives -- delicious!

One of my goals on the trip was to stick to a healthy diet. I did just OK on the October trip, and I was determined to do better this time around. The results: well, not as good as I'd hoped. But I had a good time and a lot of good things to eat. But an excellent trip -- even better! Thanks, Dad, Jody, Mike, Christina and Blair. We'll be back soon to visit -- and find some more tasty Texas treats.

I'm including a recipe that seems like it should be a Texas favorite, but from what I learned, it isn't. Texans don't like beans in their chili, but this is an excellent recipe nonetheless. This recipe is from the book, "The Best Light Recipe."

Vegetarian Bean Chili

1 tbsp. cumin seeds
1 medium onion, minced
1 large red bell pepper, stemmed seeded and chopped fine
9 medium garlic cloves, minced or pressed through a garlic press (about 3 tbsp.)
3 tbsp. chili powder
1 tbsp. vegetable oil
1/4 tsp. cayenne
Salt
3 cups canned beans, drained and rinsed
2 cups water
1 can (28 oz.) crushed tomatoes
1 tsp. dried oregano
1 tbsp. brown sugar
1 cup corn kernels
1/4 cup. coarsely chopped fresh cilantro leaves
1 tbsp. fresh lime juice

Toast the cumin seeds in a large Dutch oven over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the onion, bell pepper, garlic, chili powder, oil, cayenne and 1/2 tsp. salt. Cover and cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are softened, about 8 to 10 minutes.

Stir in the beans, water, tomatoes, oregano and brown sugar, scraping up any browned bits. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat; reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the chili is slightly thickened, about 25 minutes.

Stir in the corn and continue to simmer until heated through, about 5 to 10 minutes. Off the heat, stir in the cilantro and lime juice, and season with salt to taste.

Cook's notes: Since I can't eat bell peppers, I substitute celery for added crunch. And, as the blog's title suggests, I hold the cilantro. In its place I add some flat-leaf parsley for a fresh flavor. I also have substituted lemon juice in place of the lime juice. The cookbook recommends a mix of black, pinto and kidney beans. I have used that combination and find it excellent.